laying acrylics over enamels or vice versa

The rule of thumb to which I've subscribed has been lacquers under enamels under acrylics. Given each sufficient drying/curing time, I've never had a problem with this order.

What I always use is a gloss cote over the color coats to support the washes (they go on better over gloss finishes). If I use enamels or lacquers, I usually use Floquil Crystal Cote. For acrylics, I use Future or Polly Scale gloss finish. I've also used Crystal Cote over acrylics when they're good and dry - over a week of drying time. Just hit it like you would any gloss finish - building up the finish.

liquids, but.... The

Again, the paint carrier will dictate the gloss coat. Years ago, I dorked-up a Monogram A-4E with Microscale's liquid mask over Polly S acrylics (a mistake I never made again) but the same mask works fine over a gloss enamel or lacquer. Some experimentation might be in order but the above-mentioned rule has worked for me without fail.

Frank Kranick

Urban legend, born out of the fact that _early_ acrylics could be damaged by cellulose-based paints or by turpentine. Seldom a problem now, as long as you wait enough for the acrylic resin to cure completely

- anywhere from 6 to 24 hours, depending on the manufacturer. You can safely double that time for an acrylic clear gloss.

I have to reply to this thread.

I use Testors flat gray primer or OD green as a base on almost all my models. Over that I have put a variety of paints, including a variety of acrylics of various type, from craft acrylics to Tamiya and never had a problem. I almost always wait 24 hours before doing this.

Another thing I do is put down a coat of clear flat over the acrylics before a wash, again something I have never head trouble with.

I also use the flat gray primer on figures, over which I have painted with oils numerous times. Again, no problem; the oils seem to attach just fine to the primer.

Now, that does not mean there are no possible problems. I have just not seen any.

Lance

No kidding? I thought the Microscale mask was fairly innocuous but I can't recall using it over acrylics. Thanks for the heads up. Cheeers,

The Keeper (of too much crap!)

I've had the same problem with it..... Now I only use it with oil based, and then only when there is nothing else usable for me.

My 2 cents worth.

I generally undercoat with a Humbrol or Revell light grey enamel paint (as the enamel seems to stick to the virgin plastic better than acrylic). Depending on the required colour and what I have in my paint stash, the top coat can be any of the following.

MM Acryl Tamiya Acrylic Humbrol/Revell enamels

I then seal with Future, wash/weather and then seal with Humbrol flat clear (a lacquer) or MM Satin (an acrylic).

I leave at least 24 hours between coats and have never had problems with paint cracking or pealing.

YMMV Ultan

Yes, the Microscale mask can cause some problems over acrylic paint: I think the problem is it bonds too well to the paint and so when you remove it you can damage the underlying paint (if I'm not wrong the label suggest to use it only over enamel paint).

Anyway, usually there are no problems in using enamel over acrylic or vice versa, as long as they are fully cured. Of course there are exceptions. Some brands are incompatible with others, so you'd better test on a scrap model before using it on your latest masterpiece.

I experienced some compatibility problems between Polly S clean coats and enamel thinner (it weakens the paint, so especially during a wash you could ruin the paintjob) and found that both Polly S clearcoat (mainly the flat) and Future can crack underlying Gunze paint.

I experienced also some problems while spraying gunze flat over tamiya gloss paint (but it was an old bottle, so that could have been the problem).

My 0.02

Oops, I meant Polly Scale, not Polly S

My 0.02