enamels or acrylics??????

Yes this is my second post today but am trying to get something cleared
I have been spraying createx acrylics and cannot seem to find a
consistent method for getting the paints to spray for me. After
spending some time in the archive portion of this site it seems that my
problem may very well be that the paint is drying in the brush or at
the tip too fast causing the brush to clog! Mostly I am not thinning
the createx, if I do I use straight water. The doggone brush sprays,
stops, sprays, stops. The brush/paint will not let me spray a bit at a
time, it's wide open or not at all!
If I switch to enamels will I be able to get a consistent stream from
one color to the next and will I be able to spray a light stream of
color allowing me to SLOWLY build up colors?
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Yes. There are those who swear by acrylics, but I have never been able to get the hang of airbrushing them. I will stick with enamels.
-- Chuck Ryan snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEearthlink.net Springfield OH
Reply to
Charles Ryan
What type of brush are you using and at what pressure are you spraying? Sounds like you may need to thin the paint slightly and maybe use a flow enhancer like Acrylic Flow Medium available at art stores .You could also try using Windex , the flow medium I use reaks of ammonia , which I supect is just a form of household ammonia with some thing else mixed into it ,maybe water and isopropynol alcohol ,which is what windex is .Don't worry about the blue colouring in the Windex it won't change the colour of your paint. I use both types of paint .I have a number of different brands Revell , Floquil ,Humbrol ,Tamiya and Modelmaster ,in Acrylic and enamel . For enamels I use turpentine or lacquer thinner ,and acrylics I use rubbing alcohol for clean up and thinning.
I was at my local Toyworld yesterday and the guy who looks after the hobby side of things says he wants to get rid of all the Modelmaster enamel paints ,so I offered to buy the whole lot including the display rack . The rack is 3/4 full and there is also a large box of extras as well , I'm waiting for him to get back to with a price. He wants to switch to Humbrol Acrylics , due to some local hobbyists' request.
Reply to
Ehh??? Were the local guys dropped on their head when they were kids? I recall trying Humbrol acrylics about 10 years (?) ago - they were fairly ordinary, to say the least. Unless the formula's been changed, your local Toyworld could end up with a pile of unused Humbrol acrylics... Humbrols enamels, now that's a different thing!
Reply to
Rob Grinberg
I do not have the problems with enamel drying in my airbrush that I do with acrylics. However, MOST enamels must be thinned somewhat. There are a few that perport to be pre-thinned, but the ones I use definitely need thinning. I mostly use Testors enamels, either the Model Master or the regular enamels.
I use Testors airbrush thinner for thinning. I buy it in the half-pint cans, and since I use it only for thinning, this is not too great a cost. I clean the brush, bottles, etc. with regular paint thinner or turpentine.
Because of the quick drying problem I no longer use any acrylics in my airbrush.
Reply to
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
try using "airbrush medium", those "thinners" are fine but enhance the tip dry problem, airbrush medium will restore the sprayability and flow
Reply to
I will give the Windex a chance today and see what happens. If that doesn't work I will look at a medium designed for improving sprayability.
Regarding enamels, is there a group of enamels that I can buy in a general hardware store to try? I live in a small town and all I have here is a Wal-Mart and a Sherwin Williams, nothing else. I was looking around today at paints and there are so many different types, it's mind bogling! The enamels you guys are using are they "acrylic enamels"? There are acrylic latex's too...oh and acrylic lacquers.....very confusing!
Thanks for the help!
Reply to
I use PollyScale and Model Master acrylics exclusively. I used to have trouble airbrushing, until I read a tip here on RMS:
Windshield washer fluid.
I now use that to thin the acrylics for airbrushing, and have great results. Unlike water, the WW fluid has a little bit of detergent or something that breaks up the surface tension. The weak blue dye in the liquid has no impact at all on the color - even when aiurbrushing white.
I'm using an Iwata airbrush, and usually spray at 12-15 psi.
I used to dislike airbrushing- 'cuz i got such uneven results. Since switching from distilled water to WW fluid, I now get good results every time.
Reply to
RC Boater
I'm curious as to how thin you are making the paint RC....if you have the paint in your jar can you get the paint to swirl like milk or is still too thick to move much?
I tried the windex last night and did help but I am thinking I need to thin it a bit further yet...will try again this eve. :D
Thanks for the help.
Reply to
When I have troubles finding a proper paint thinning with a new brand, I try first with the "wrong" ratio on a scrap model. Instead of thinning the paint, I start with thinner and then add paint until it flows well: it's easier to see when the paint is too thin because it runs and/or doesn't cover well.
Anyway, I work mainly with Gunze acrylics and a good ratio is around 50/50. But it can vary depending on airbrush/pressure/paint brand
Always test with plastic (paper or cardboard don't give reliable results).
My 0.02
Reply to
As a rule of thumb, I thin about 30%, but it also depends on how thick the paint was to start. I go for the fabled "milk consistency"- definitely thin enough to swirl around.
Reply to
RC Boater

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