Can I use acrylics for a wash?

I would like to say yes, but in general I've had bad results trying it for two reasons. First and foremost it dries WAY too quickly. I like puting a thinned burnt umber/black wash in panel lines etc, and then being able to wipe the excess away. Second, most acrylics, at least those over several years old, do not have the pigments ground fine enough. For a while I did use Badger acrylic Instrument Black as it was very finely ground, and very very thin.

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Depends on what you're washing over. If it's enamel, sure, but not if it's an acrylic coat because the wash coat can, and probably will dissolve it. Use the opposite of whatevr you're washing over, ie acrylic over enamel and vice versa. Since the thinners aren't compatible, you won't dissolve the underlying paint. I don't know what you're trying to do a wash on, but bear a couple things in mind--

1. A wash over gloss will run and/or puddle, but you use this to your advantage to get it into panel lines, and it makes the excess easier to remove.
2. A wash over flat will lay out over the entire surface because of the surface roughness. Use this to your advantage for overall weathering and darkening. When using acrylics as a wash, put a couple drops of dish washing soap in the mix. It helps it flow out and settle.

There is no specific ratio. Generally, start with a full paint bottle full of clean thinner (I use windshild solvent for acrylics, mineral spirits for enamels), then lightly dip the brush in your wash color, then rinse it out in the thinner. It may not look like much is in there, but it's easy to do multiple washes; trying to remove overkill is another matter.

An added note--while lacquer thinner works well to thin enamel paint for airbrushing, DO NOT, DO NOT use it as a wash thinner! That's one lesson I learned the hard way that should have been blatantly obvious. Anything that might touch bare plastic will melt it. Dammitol!

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Artists watercolors can be used for weathering. The pigment is very finely ground in the better brands, like Windsor and Newton. They come in tubes, thin with water, and can be washed off if you aren't happy with an effect. Add a tiny amount of dish soap to make the wash flow evenly. If you do get a ring where a bead has dried, it can be gently scrubbed out with a slightly damp brush. When you are satisfied, just overspray with clear flat to make it permanent. GPO

In my experience, acrylics make poor washes. By their very nature, they tend to dry too quickly. They also have a tendency to dry "flaky", and/or "hard-edged" (i.e. leaving a "ring").

The best medium to use is artists' oils. Get yourself a few browns and blacks, of the Winsor Newton artist line (avoid the cheaper, Winton student line). Thin them with cheap old mineral spirits. Even if you have painted in enamels, if you let the colors coats set up for a few days, you should not have any problems with the wash lifting them.

For many of the same reasons, artists oils are the best medium for dry-brushing as well (only do *not* thin them, at all, in this case).

You bet, although they are different than oils/enamals. A technique making the rounds is to use a "sludge" wash. Thin your acrylic paint with water, then mix some dishwashing detergent in it. Brush it on and let set up. Then wipe away the excess with a damp rag. Seen it done and it looks great. Plus it will not affect enamal paints underneath. Curt

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, AcornMan at snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net wrote on 12/7/04 5:23 PM:

I use acrylics on enamels and oil-based paints on acrylics. I thin my acrylic with water and a little detergent and that seems to slow the drying. I could always add a bit of retarder (Goldens) if I need it. For a barrier on the acrylic base coat, I use Future. It's tough stuff (Hey, you can even walk on it!)

I thin my oil paints with lighter fluid (naptha) or mineral spirits although I prefer naptha. I prefer painting my models with acrylics and weathering with oils and pastels but I'll use whatever is necessary.

MB