A question regarding washes

Hi folks,

I am confused about how to go about doing a wash. I have painted my M21 mortar carrier in tamiya acrylic. I want to do a wash using my windsor newton oils, diluted wth white spirit. I have trawled various model sites trying to find the best way to go about this. Some tell me that if the base coat is acrylic and is left to cure for 48+ hrs, then oils thinned with white spirit will not affect the acrylic base. Others recommed using a seal such as Future or a flat base (Tamiya X21/22?) as they say that the white spirit will affect the base coat.

I did try using some scrap plastic without a seal, but when the thinner evaporated, it left behind some stains, which didnt look too hot, but looked pretty good on rivets and panel lines. Can anyone suggest the best way to go about this?

Thanks

Kev

Reply to
Kev Sparrow
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You are on the right track. Use what is called a "controlled wash". Use a fine brush to apply the wash to those aforementioned areas, such as panel lines, rivets, "nooks and crannies" that would be in shadow areas, etc.

Reply to
Greg Heilers

You can also apply it and wipe away where you don't want it; it'll stay in the little cracks and crevices where you do want it.

--- Tontoni

Reply to
Stephen Tontoni

Hi

Do you recommend using a flat base or future prior to washing? Also, what's the best way to combat the stains left from the white spirit?

Thanks, Kev

Reply to
Kev Sparrow

I wouldn't worry about any "clear coat"; as there should be no real adverse reaction; if your acrylic base is indeed nice and cured. I am not sure as to exactly what you mean by the "stains"; as I have never experienced that. If you use the wash in a controlled way; just applying it where you want it; you should really not experience any "stains". Remember, this "contolled" wash is just that: Applied with a fine brush, a #00 or finer. There is no "slopping it on the entire model" with a big brush. And the pigment/thinner ratio is probably much larger that what you are used to.

Reply to
Greg Heilers

Hi, thanks, I will try and be a bit more delicate in the application.

Thanks Kev

Reply to
Kev Sparrow

Use a glossy clear coat ,future or whatever u have. Those stains can be wiped away using a q-tip, brush of other such utensil moistened in white spirits. I also find that applying another coat of future after the wash has dried helps bring out the wash that much more.

John

Reply to
John H.

Kev Sparrow wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Try covering the model with a flat clear coat after washing (and/or drybrushing) this will seal the model and get rid of the stains. This always works for me. I use Pactra acrylic flat clear.

But please try this on a piece of scrap first!!

BTW Pactra acrylics can't be had in the Netherlands anymore. So if anybody out there has/knows some flat clear and wants to send them to me, please let me know (Ill pay for it and shipping of course)

Cheers,

Dennis

Reply to
me-me

Reply to
AcornMan

Great question.............I have ruined a few great models over the years with bad washes.I like the idea of "controlled Washes"......can you please define "white spirit " for me. usually use Artists "Turpentine" which,I am not sure if that equates as "white spirit".I only paint with Acrylics and oils

Reply to
Ozmoddler

Also ......sorry as an added question could someone please define "future".is it a paint or a sealer,a ?????.it keeps being mentioned,I assume its a brand name for a product........................Thanx

Reply to
Ozmoddler

White Spirit is just mineral spirits, a turpentine substitute. Thins down artist oils and enamel paints, but does not work with acrylics I think.

Future is a floor polish, its called Klear in the UK, maybe called something else in .au. Check this link:

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Reply to
Kev Sparrow

Thanx kev.....thanx for the link....in oz we add a colour to the mineral spirits so that it is usually blue before u buy it .so.the ?/'white spirits".isnt really "white".thanx for ur input .

Reply to
Ozmoddler

"White spirits"...is what is usually called (here in the USA) "mineral spirits". If you go to a place like Walmart, Home Depot, etc., and look for something that is usually labeled, simply "paint thinner", it is most likely "mineral spirits". This is the best thinner to use for what we are discussing. And the "cheaper the better". Plain old Walmart-store-brand "paint thinner" (the type in the gallon-ish jugs for a buck or two) is perfect. It is also perfect for thinning oils for the usual model-building related purposes. As a matter of fact, if you use oils as part of your regular painting routine...your jar of dirty thinner is usually the perfect color and consistency for this "controlled wash". Turpentine is a bit too strong for model-building use; as well as "gummy/sticky".

Reply to
Greg Heilers

As I myself have mentioned on *many* an occasion...

This *really* needs to be inserted into the FAQ:

formatting link
:o)

Reply to
Greg Heilers

I don't think anybody maintains it anymore.

Reply to
Al Superczynski

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