What I do is use Tamiya transparent acrylic paints - lightly airbrushed
onto the inside of the clear part. I use a very thin mixture applied
very lightly.
You can pratice on a clear vacformed package blister to get the
aplication right before you spray the part.
The transparent colors starting with VAL 935. Best applied with an air
brush.
Testor's Model Master and Humbrol make transparent paints as well.
For small items like light lenses, Kristal Klear tinted with food coloring.
Cheers,
Depending on what color you need/want, just put some food coloring into
Future and dip the parts. Just be careful as the food coloring is
concentrated enough to make strong colors very easily; you'd be amazed at
what one drop per ounce will do. And yes, in case you're wondering, it's
a cheap, easy way to make clear colors for other uses.
I think that the cost factor here is peanuts compared to getting the results
you want. The thing that I have found in airbrushing Tamiya transparent
acrylics is they loose a significant amount of translucency in the process.
This probably isn't a problem if you are covering a solid background but if
you are doing something like tinting windows it is. Diluted Future when
applied right with an airbrush adds virtually no opacity. As far as the
tinting for Future I have always used a few drops of gloss acrylic paint
that I have on hand and it works fine -- no need for food coloring. There
are always so many variables that you need to do a test shot with what ever
you use before you apply it to your model.
Jim Bright
Others have mentioned the Future+food-coloring route, which
works well. But even *this* is not necessary, if you
are doing very small areas, such as lights. On small
parts, food-coloring+"your_favorite_white_glue" (I like
Sobo brand) works wonders.
After all the replies, which are all good, the only thing that remains is
your sense of economics, ie, $2 for a 1/2oz bottle of Tamiya transparent
acrylic paint (one color), or $5 for a 32 oz bottle of Future/Krystal
Klear (same same, clear acrylic) and maybe 85 cents for a box of food
coloring (four colors to make whatever combination you can imagine). A
little quick math in my head says for $6 you can then whip up 64 of those
half ounce bottles.
Thanks gents! These clear parts are for the navigation/position lights
for the EnterpriseNX01 the scott bakula star trek,alot of these are
teeny tiny blips,others arepart of the ships structure.Guess polar
lights couldnt dye them,I will go the transparent paint route,thanks
mucho again!.
Could you expand on this? Using the RIT dye is a new approach/ idea that I
have not seen before. Better describe what it is too for all the folks who
may not know.
r
"Rich" wrote in
news:4401f1ba$0$20160$ snipped-for-privacy@news.wanadoo.fr:
All I remember about Rit from making Rit dyed plaster of paris for dioramas
years ago is that the water has to be HOT for the dye to properly dissolve.
Frank
I have had good luck using machinist layout dye. Dyechem I believe is
the name of the stuff. It is available in blue, green and red. I use
the green for windscreens on canopies. I scrouged mine from a machine
shop. I filled small paint bottles with each color they had. Cost me
a six pack of barley pop.
It still works once it has cooled. I had a jar for the longest time
that I used for a base colour on the scenery on the layout. I just kept
adding water to the mix. I never tried it on plastic so I can't say how
it would have behaved.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Mad Modeller wrote in
news: snipped-for-privacy@nextline.com:
Hmm. Well it was 30 years ago. Maybe I wasn't using enough to color the
plaster properly.
Frank
People keep using and mentioning "FUTURE".well its obviously a
brand name for something.that isnt on my shopping ventures.so could
somebody tell me what it is , what it is used for .and its chemical
composition.so is it the universal .product ...........lol ?????
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