need sprayable washable primer ..suggestions ?

in fact doesnt need to be primer, I just need it to dry then wash off !

"Steve" wrote in news:OacNh.1392$ snipped-for-privacy@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk:

I'd just get to it with what you have. Lately I've been using Tamiya spray primer (a laquer) to see how my filling and sanding is going. Things often look a lot better with an even coat of primer than with bare plastic thats been filed and sanded and the fillers.

When I'm done with the fillng/filing/sanding/priming cycle I'll sometimes just polish the primer smooth with a fine sanding stick or pad, wipe it all down to get all the dust off and then use superglue to attach parts that may otherwise have been damaged.

Works for me, mileage may vary.

Frank

Hi Gray Ghost, are you saying I would be able to superglue etched brass flat panels onto the primer ? My friend scrapes the primer off up to where the brass will go, makes good with emery stick the now irregular scraped surface then affixes the part, certainly if plastic to plastic that would be needed, but if I am superglueing brass to grey primer, would it be stable and reliable ? or might the primer react in time and craze, ruining my paint job ?

As for filling up to the edge of the brass flat part (6 thou thick), will milliput epoxy putty (lovely filler :-) ) take to the primer or again may I see problems develop with time ?

If I had used Halfords filler primer spray, would that be better, not likely to react etc ..also saves rubbing off paint to add filler to a small gully !...just rub down all else except the gully, er...perhaps not !

Steve

Forgive my intrusion, but in my experience, if Halfords primer is sufficiently dried, superglue will work perfectly without any more prep.

Superglue sticks brass just fine to untreated Halfords primer straight out of the can, once it has set up. Have a look at a primered part outside in sunlight. You'll see it has a slight rainbow particle effect on the surface. That's due to the 'key' surface the primer takes on when dry. If you smooth the surface, it actually makes the primer less effective. Also filler is more likely to crack than the primer ever will if applied correctly.

Halfords primer is acrylic, ie plastic, and is as stable as the plastic the kit itself is made from. I've used it for years and it's never reacted with anything that wouldn't affect the plastic itself once it's dried. Don't forget, it's designed to go on real cars and therefore has to be able to resist the elements. About the only thing I've found it doesn't like is cellulose thinners. And even then it takes a while to really etch the surface. It would melt the plastic first.

Best primer you can buy, imo. Cheap, readily available, tough as old boots, dries super quick and a can lasts ages if you don't overdo it.

"Steve" wrote in news:XpfNh.1513$ snipped-for-privacy@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk:

As noted above once the priner sets up it seems very stable. In my experience, working with Tamiya primer it works.

I get he impression that once Miliput sets up you need C4 to un-ass it. It is the hardest material I've sanded

According to others here, Halford seems as stable a Tamiya.

Frank

Silver paint. While acrylic paints are water soluble, they won't wash off with water. But will come off easily with rubbing alcohol, especially 91%.

Silver does an even better job than grey primer at showing off imperfections.

imperfections,

imperfections.

In my neck of the woods, you can buy rubbing alcohol off the cosmetics or first aid shelves in two strengths - 70% and 91%. It refers to the percentage of alcohol content in the bottle. IE the 70% contains 70% rubbing alcohol 30% distilled water.