Alclad versus Testors Metalizers

OK guys, put on your collective thinking caps for this one. I am about to paint several A/C in aluminum plate and I'm at a quagmire as to what type of metalizer to use. By the way, this will be my first trip into the metalizer world.

Alclad or Testors - airbrushed, or Testors rattle cans. If Alclad, what primer, if Testors, what primer.

Keep in mind that I want the surface of the A/C to be as smooth as possible after applying the primer, so it cannot have heavy pigmentation (grain) - almost has to be a gloss type primer.

After the metalizer has set and dried, what is the best way to apply the decals so that they won't fall off or silver?

The A/C:

1/144 Super Connie 1/144 Pan Am Clipper 1/144 Spruce Goose 1/72 Ford Tri Motor

So, any and all advice will be more than greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,

Ray Austin, TX ===

Reply to
Ray S. & Nayda Katzaman
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Alclad over Alclad primer or Mr. Surfacer and polish either one a bit with micromesh. Unless the specific Alclad color calls for gloss black, then use their gloss black base.

Trim as much of the clear carrier away as you can and apply like usual over Alclad. You can use Polly scale clear gloss, satin or flat over Alclad with minimal effect on the metallic look (the exceptions being chrome, highly polised aluminum and stainlass steel).

Highyl polished aluminum with other aluminum shades for the duller areas.

Most likely silver doped so i'd use white aluminum or dull aluminum.

Doped, see above.

Various aluminum shades but not the highly polished.

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Reply to
Bruce Apple

Any surface imperfections will show through the metals. If you don't plan to apply the metals to bare plastic, a first coat of anything will have to be polished out. So, if you have to prime over any body work or decide to use Alclad or SnJ, the primer and/or base coats will have to be polished out.

With Testors airbrushed metals, you would still have to polish out any primed over body work but using Future on top of that saves you from polishing out another base coat. I have built a couple doing it this way and they turned out great. I also use another method which is a bit labor intensive but I don't have to wait for anything to dry or cure before going on to the next 'tint'.

As for decaling over Testor's, just make sure to use some kind of setting solution or water *under* the decal to help placing them or you might not be able to reposition them

Google for me here on rms for each technique and alt.binaries.model.scale for the results. Or check here for the Hun I did using Future as a base coat:

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-- Chuck Ryan Springfield OH

Reply to
Chuck Ryan

Around here, the preferred primer for Alclad is Tamiya black gloss paint. I prefer the Alclad if I want a really shiny finish. This is good for airliners. Testors is fine for wartime subjects where finish is not polished regularly.

The trimotors were not shiny at all. I do trimotors with flat aluminum paint.

Reply to
Don Stauffer

Hi Ray, I too recently took my first trip into the NMF realm with a

1/72 Mig-21 F-13. I got several different opinions on different products - some more durable than others etc. etc. This is what I ended up doing and I was reasonably pleased with the ease of the process and the end result. I used testors metalizer with an airbrush. One useful hint is USE IN A WELL VENTED AREA. This stuff is very noxious; more so than your typical enamel. I had to take several breaks and open windows during the process. I primed the model with flat grey enamel b/c the model did have some filler work to do and I wanted to make sure it was done well enough. After priming and prepping, I gave it a good coat of future to make it smooth. Then I sprayed overall polished aluminum buffing metalizer. I masked with Parafilm-M (despite being advised that it would not adhere, it worked pretty well and did not pull off the metalizer) and then did select panels in magnesium buffing metalizer. I buffed these panels until they were very shiny and some of the undercoat of aluminum showed through to tone down the contrast. I also masked off a few areas and did them in polished aluminum non-buffing metalizer for additional contrast. I did the engine exhaust area in steel buffing metalizer and over sprayed the edge in burnt iron and jet exhaust buffing metalizers. I then buffed this area heavily to blend the colors and give it a nice shine. All masking was done with Parafilm-M which worked well for me. After painting was done, I gave another coat of future and put the decals on with some setting solution. I did some panel line washing with artist oil paints and then sealed the whole deal with another coat of future toned down just a bit with some Tamiya acrylic flat base. I am pleased with the finished product and it was relatively simply for a first crack. Good luck and do beware of the strong fumes. - Jack
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Oh yeah, and for the flat aluminum look I like floquil's "old silver". Very tuff and easy to work with.

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I use Alclad. Period.

It's the best NMF I've found, regardless of the final finish you want. It comes in several tints and shades and the final gloss or lack depends on what type clear finish used (or not used) to complete the model.

Here's the best part. I use any lacquer based primer?gloss black for very bright finishes, but usually I use Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr. Color Thinner. Alclad dries in seconds and two light coats are always better than one heavy one (as with any paint) and when it's dry, I can mask over it with duct tape if that's what I want and it will NOT lift. The resulting finish?if my primer was polished out correctly?will be smooth and decals will lay down with no need of a gloss overcoat.

I've used just about any NMF on the market and this is the most "nearly" fool-proof of the lot. SNJ metal finish is very good and with care can be masked over but it's just a bit more sensitive. Almost anyone can use Alclad and still get an acceptable natural metal finish.

And no, I don't work for Alclad. I just use it.


Reply to
Milton Bell

You can use any paint underneath Alclad as a primer; just make sure the surface is perfect, and use a good gloss over that and rub it out. The Alclad will gon on like a dream.

When I build a CF100 Canuck, I shot panels Grimey Black, and other panels with 65 Lt Blue. Used plain old Testor's gloss-cote, and rubbed it out.

Then I shot Alclad II aluminum over that in light dusting coats. I never put it on too heavy, as I wanted the various color panels underneath to show through. From the right angle, you can see the different panel tints quite clearly.

No rubbing out, not fuss nor muss. Ventilation.. YEP..if you're spraying without a booth and good ventilation you're asking for trouble anyway. Much more with Alclad.

I used Testor's metallizers for detail painting with a brush, not with the airbrush.

--- Tontoni

Reply to
Stephen Tontoni

Ray, Visit the SnJ Model Products web site. SnJ Spray Metal does not require primer. You can mask over it without any problem or concern. You do not need to paint any other colors under it as it is too opaque to matter. Scott Bell, Owner SnJ Model Products

Ray S. & Nayda Katzaman wrote:

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I have had very satisfactory results with a mix of SNJ buffing powder, Future and a touch of rubbing alcohol for NMF's. The Future gives it a nice "sheen" and the mixture doesn't "clump up" like regular SNJ once it has been opened.

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If Testors, no primer. It needs to be applied directly to the bare plastic, and will bite a bit because it is a laquer. After you apply it, try polishing the surface with fine or medium'll be amazed.

I find no real difference in the finish between using Metalizer from a can or airbrush when using my Scotchbrite technique - just remember that it's hotter stuff, and don't over-do your coats, if you use it.

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