Restoring panel lines

I have two questions I would appreciate your help with.

  1. What is the best way to restore raised panel lines? Would blending in scribed recessed lines work?

  1. I have been using a sewing needle in a pin.vise to scribe lines. Are the commercial scribing tools superior and if so what brand is best?

Rereading this there are actually four questions there. TIA Pete

Reply to
The Laws
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Sadly that never looks right. Stretch some sprue to an appropriate size and use hot glue like Tenax. You may have to putty & blend at a joint.

I'm using an Olfa plastic cutting blade; far superior to the needle.

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hth

The Keeper (of too much crap!)

Reply to
Keeper

Try masking with the tape along the line you're trying to restore, and put Mr. Surfacer 500 on the part for restoring. If it isn't enough, give it another go...

Squadron's scribing tool, and Hasegawa's etched saws...

Ciao di

Tomislav Martan 9A4Tc

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(On-line at last...)

Reply to
Duke Nukem

Can't help with a brand name, just a couple of clay modelling tools from the craft section of the cheap warehouse. Were priced to match, rather than modelling stores. I have three different sized ones.

They have a bent curved pointed blade end and a triangle pointed blade on the other end with a wooden handle. The blades are quite hard and hold an edge quite well when sharpened with a stone. They are hard enough to scratch plastic with in any direction, and as the rounded point bend is across the blade, they are great to dig out with. They dig into solder really well. And if you heat them with a soldering iron by resting the blade against it for half a minute, they really cut like a hot knife through butter! You can break off any junk that sticks as it cools with a pair of pliers. The wooden handle protects your hand from the temperature, but a pair (or just one used carefully) of leather welding gloves will protect you and might make mum happier! (And those of you with girlfriends, will probably get laughed at for your own stupidity!)

I also use the same end for removing splinters! About the same size as your pin vice with an extra end.

Hope this helps, Peter

Reply to
Bushy

I tried nearly all tools for rescribing 1/72 kits, but I didn't like any of them very well. Until I tried a razor blade saw! It works so much better, I couldn't believe it. I'm using the JLC brand, as shown here:

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Try it, you won't be disappointed.

Rob de Bie

My models:

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Me 163B site:
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Reply to
Rob de Bie

Unfortunately, the direct link

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to the razor saw doesn't seem to be working.

Reply to
Edwin Ross Quantrall

I've used a straight pin clamped in a pin vice as well as a Squadron scribing tool and a #11 Xacto blade turned around so the backside leads. I rather prefer the Xacto blade in most instances where a really fine (thin) line is needed but, because it is so sharp, there is always a danger of cutting too deep. The straight pin does a reasonably good job as well but they dull rather quickly and you need to change the pin frequently - the good thing is they're cheap (or free if you save 'em when you buy a new shirt). The scribing tool is a bit more expensive and seems (to me) to be rather slow going. It also usually makes a wider line when you're scribing.

Any one will do an OK job and all have plusses and minuses.

My home page:

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" In walks the village idiot and his face is all aglow; he's been up all night listening to Mohammad's radio" W. Zevon

Reply to
Bill Woodier

I have a carbide-tipped scriber that I use to restore panel lines; however, I *NEED* a razorblade saw -- I have a number of canopies that I'd like to display open -- but whenever I've tried to order any from Squadron, no matter which brand, they're *ALWAYS* "Out of Stock"...

Reply to
Edwin Ross Quantrall

jeweler's saws are easy to get and cut fine lines.

Reply to
someone

Edwin Ross Quantrall wrote >

A razorblade saw is a wonderful tool, but for opening canopies I use a fine sewing needle with Chart-pak tape as a guide and scribe my way through. IMHO it gives better control.

Frank

Reply to
Frank Koval

Not even close to the same. It like trying to use a coping saw where you really need a backsaw.

Reply to
Ron

Do what I do and sharpen them !!!! My Trimaster fine scriber came with an oilstone, and now I sharpen ALL my scribing tools before I use them.

A fish hook sharpener is definitely the best to me, just hard to find a fine stone version.

Reply to
AM

ok, the kind of jewelers saw i mean is the wire blade variety. you can get some incredibly fine cuts. i use them for flaps, doors and canopies.

Reply to
someone

That is the kind of jewelers' saw I was refering to, a razor blade saw is thinner and stiffer, also no frame.

Reply to
Ron

what can't you cut with a jewelers saw?

Reply to
someone

Restoring panel lines.

Reply to
Ron

coming full circle to the topic...ok.

Reply to
someone

the link is indeed

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look at section 4. Meindert

Reply to
Meindert

For (re-)scribing recessed panel lines I am suing for years now the Olfa P-cutter Type 450

It gives excellent results and you even get a nice even ridge along the scribed line that in most cases you would sand off obviously.

Meindert

Reply to
Meindert

I've never been able to find a jewelers saw blade as thin as a razorblade saw. Even the thinnest ones that I've found would damage either side of the parts that I want to separate.

Reply to
Edwin Ross Quantrall

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