Try masking with the tape along the line you're trying to restore, and put Mr. Surfacer 500 on the part for restoring. If it isn't enough, give it another go...
Squadron's scribing tool, and Hasegawa's etched saws...
Can't help with a brand name, just a couple of clay modelling tools from the craft section of the cheap warehouse. Were priced to match, rather than modelling stores. I have three different sized ones.
They have a bent curved pointed blade end and a triangle pointed blade on the other end with a wooden handle. The blades are quite hard and hold an edge quite well when sharpened with a stone. They are hard enough to scratch plastic with in any direction, and as the rounded point bend is across the blade, they are great to dig out with. They dig into solder really well. And if you heat them with a soldering iron by resting the blade against it for half a minute, they really cut like a hot knife through butter! You can break off any junk that sticks as it cools with a pair of pliers. The wooden handle protects your hand from the temperature, but a pair (or just one used carefully) of leather welding gloves will protect you and might make mum happier! (And those of you with girlfriends, will probably get laughed at for your own stupidity!)
I also use the same end for removing splinters! About the same size as your pin vice with an extra end.
I tried nearly all tools for rescribing 1/72 kits, but I didn't like any of them very well. Until I tried a razor blade saw! It works so much better, I couldn't believe it. I'm using the JLC brand, as shown here:
I've used a straight pin clamped in a pin vice as well as a Squadron scribing tool and a #11 Xacto blade turned around so the backside leads. I rather prefer the Xacto blade in most instances where a really fine (thin) line is needed but, because it is so sharp, there is always a danger of cutting too deep. The straight pin does a reasonably good job as well but they dull rather quickly and you need to change the pin frequently - the good thing is they're cheap (or free if you save 'em when you buy a new shirt). The scribing tool is a bit more expensive and seems (to me) to be rather slow going. It also usually makes a wider line when you're scribing.
Any one will do an OK job and all have plusses and minuses.
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" In walks the village idiot and his face is all aglow; he's been up all night listening to Mohammad's radio" W. Zevon
I have a carbide-tipped scriber that I use to restore panel lines; however, I *NEED* a razorblade saw -- I have a number of canopies that I'd like to display open -- but whenever I've tried to order any from Squadron, no matter which brand, they're *ALWAYS* "Out of Stock"...
A razorblade saw is a wonderful tool, but for opening canopies I use a fine sewing needle with Chart-pak tape as a guide and scribe my way through. IMHO it gives better control.
I've never been able to find a jewelers saw blade as thin as a razorblade saw. Even the thinnest ones that I've found would damage either side of the parts that I want to separate.
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