Your essential tool

A Northwest Short Line "Chopper II." Cannot imagine making any sort of modifications or scratchbuilding project without one.

Second would probably be a "Hold and Fold" as it actually showed me etched brass CAN be used with success.

Cookie Sewell

Only one candidate, really: #3 handle with #11 blade scalpel.

Rob

I'd really like one of those. Any idea how I can get one in the UK?

That's on my purchase list. I've had good results without one, but that has been on model railway kits, which have quite a thick gauge of brass.

A supply of single edged razor blades. Usually I just use it as is, but when I need a fine point and an X-Acto #11 isn't fine enough (such as the current project which involves full tack on 1/72 scale horses) I use a pair of pliers to break off a piece of the blade and mount it in an X-Acto handle.

Another is a box of double ended cocktail toothpicks. Used as is or carved to an even sharper point they are great tools for applying glue and paint n tny amounts.

Tom

Enzo Matrix wrote:

Cor! You're a sucker for punishment, intcha? :-)

Enzo,

Not sure of a UK outlet but you can order them from US companies like Walthers or Micromark. The II is a cast aluminum base with a "healing" cutting mat and runs about US $29.95 or so.

Cookie Sewell

Ron Smith wrote in news:L82dnZQM1cQvdy7YnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@rcn.net:

Your opposable thumb would be your best friend in this.

But I have a piece of piece of 2mm drill steel rod One side shaped as a razor sharp straight chisel the other side is like a round chisel. I have this already for about 15 yrs. Couldn't model without it.

Cheers,

Dennis

Unfortunately, a magnifier visor.

As The Rolling Stones said - "What a drag it is gettin' old" (but it does beat the alternative ;^)

Martin

My Flexi-File...don't know what I did before I found it.

That, and a dentist's cavity file - there's no corner too tight to get into if you have one of those.

Yep have to agree ,

2A pinvice and drill set fom no 80 to no 61 would be also up there.

1. my home made etch folding tool I machined up about 10 years ago, long before they came onto the market.But now I need an optivisor to use it.

1. My latest is my Arlec minimotor tool converted to multi speed by conecting it to a model railway variable speed transformer, it even has reverse.

I quit using the #3/#7 X-Acto combination as primary a long time (years...) ago and went back to basics - a single edged razor blade and needle files. My primary X-Acto cutting tool is now a #17 blade, usually without the handle. And a similar micro surgical scalpel blade with the handle.

I'll agree on the pin vise - I have a couple. My primarly scribing tool is a compass poine in a pin vise, and a needle in a pin vise makes a great CA applicator, part proder, etc. As for drills - I have a complete set of numbered, lettered, and fractionals, as well as my micro wire gauged set. Indispensable.

On a similar note, I scored a set of 8 miniature diamond burrs of various shapes a while back for one whole english pound on a market stall that have been unbelievably useful. And the artists' No.12 palette knife I use for filling, it could have been made for the job.

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Yea, I've heard that before. Must be true :-)

The harnesses are no tougher than the rigging on the Roden PKZ-2. I'm happy with the horses and harnesses so far. Having trouble with the manes and tails, though. One horse is black the other brown, both with white areas. I've added grey streaks to the manes and tails. next I'll try streaking with the original colors.

Anybody have any suggestions?

Tom

Enzo Matrix wrote:

I though he said "tack"...not "coiffure"?..

Finished the mouths, nostrils and eyes, at least to my satisfaction. I forgot that I still had to fabricate the wagon tongue and figure out how to hook the little beasties to it. As some photos show chains from the bridles to the tongue, others from the middle of the bodies to the cross brace I think that I'll use some scale chain for that, at least.

About time to start on the figures. I have sets from Preiser, Airfix, ESCI, Revell, Czech Master and even a good figure from Atlantic (the tall, lanky officer).

Trying to complete the diorama for a February 10 contest.

Tom

Rufus wrote:

I've seen figure modelers use real hair on larger scale figures - it looks REALLY good when it's done well. Was thinking you were at it for

Acrylics, but you're probably too far past the point. I just find them great for painting animals as you can blend colours whilst painting. IF I ever get around to that Airfix Scots Grey figure, that's my choice for the horse.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.