Seams

OK, I'll start. Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage HE-219 German night fighter (working on the stash). Put lots of time into
finding cockpit pictures and scratch building the cockpit fixtures as best I could. Then comes the assembly. Generally the kit pieces fit pretty well with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of seams. Following my usual use of Squadron Green and lots of sanding things were looking pretty well. But following a coat of RLM 02 to the parts that would be fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to the fuselage, those pesky seams still show up in several places and parts of the sink holes still need some work. My approach has always been to use the enamel paint of the color of the final finish, brushed heavy into the problem areas and then sand that out when the brushed on paint over the problem areas is totally dry. Usually makes a pretty smooth surface for the application of the final finish. Any better ideas out there? I've heard of but never seen in California a product called "Mr Surfacer" or something like that. Would that provide better/faster/easier results? Always trying to do it better...
T2
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Tom wrote:

I used to see Mr Surfacer here in CA, but only at very select locations like Brookhurst. Dunno if they'd still have it or not.
My fav putty is Tamiya putty - also hard to find in CA, but still around and also available mail order. Best for filling sink holes...and just plain the best all around. Squadron green used to be really good, but the formulation was changed back in the 80s and I haven't been able to make it work since.
As for seams - liquid glue and clamps, followed up with a Flexi-File on things like wing edges and fuselage seams; use enough liquid glue to let a bit of "molten" plastic flow out of the clamped seam. My favorite clamps are Berna Assemblers - next best thing to the human hand...whenever I see them I buy them, can't have enough of them! Using this method you'll find you'll use very little putty. If any. I like to use an artist's brush to apply liquid glue - a #1. I prefer Testors...I like its working time.
If you really want a great tool for getting into tight spots and corner seams like fillets and nacelle joins, get yourself a dental cavity file - it's an angled instrument like a dental pick, but with a small knob of a file on the end about twice the size of the head of a pin. I found mine at a gun show for about $2-3 as I recall. One of *the* most useful tools on my bench.
...and I'm waiting in earnest for the big 1/32 He 219 from Revell of Germany - it was supposed to be in stores for Christmas, now they're saying January...the teases!
--
- Rufus

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I too use Testor's glue, Rufus. Nice and thick and stays well til the parts are mated. Used to do everything with cyano, but that tended to make a mess of any detail as well as the lack of set time. Harbor freight seems to have a lot of cheap, useful tools like that. Found some nice small diamond files there as well.
T2
"Rufus" wrote in message
Tom wrote:

I used to see Mr Surfacer here in CA, but only at very select locations like Brookhurst. Dunno if they'd still have it or not.
My fav putty is Tamiya putty - also hard to find in CA, but still around and also available mail order. Best for filling sink holes...and just plain the best all around. Squadron green used to be really good, but the formulation was changed back in the 80s and I haven't been able to make it work since.
As for seams - liquid glue and clamps, followed up with a Flexi-File on things like wing edges and fuselage seams; use enough liquid glue to let a bit of "molten" plastic flow out of the clamped seam. My favorite clamps are Berna Assemblers - next best thing to the human hand...whenever I see them I buy them, can't have enough of them! Using this method you'll find you'll use very little putty. If any. I like to use an artist's brush to apply liquid glue - a #1. I prefer Testors...I like its working time.
If you really want a great tool for getting into tight spots and corner seams like fillets and nacelle joins, get yourself a dental cavity file - it's an angled instrument like a dental pick, but with a small knob of a file on the end about twice the size of the head of a pin. I found mine at a gun show for about $2-3 as I recall. One of *the* most useful tools on my bench.
...and I'm waiting in earnest for the big 1/32 He 219 from Revell of Germany - it was supposed to be in stores for Christmas, now they're saying January...the teases!
--
- Rufus


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I don't use the thick Testors stuff anymore...ahhh - the old red tube! I use the thin, liquid stuff. Apply it with a brush. And clamp - it's really the proper use of clamps that eliminates seams.
I also like to use the black cyano meant for tires. It's easier to see where you're putting it, it's more flexible, and has a longer working time. For smaller flat etched parts I'll also use watch crystal cement.
--
- Rufus

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I actually went out and bought a red tube of that stuff some time ago for a particular application, but no, I mean the Testor's allegedly liquid in the black, square container with the angular spout. I got a couple of them a couple of years ago on close out special and they still work, though I think they have thickened. I put out a little dollop of it and apply with a pin or tooth pick or some such. Doesn't get "strings" like the tube glue.
Black cyano?? Never heard of that. Sounds messy. Auto parts store? What do you use it on?
For 1/700 ship PE parts, I still use a little white glue to get them into position and then cyano carefully to finish them.
T2
"Rufus" wrote in message
I don't use the thick Testors stuff anymore...ahhh - the old red tube! I use the thin, liquid stuff. Apply it with a brush. And clamp - it's really the proper use of clamps that eliminates seams.
I also like to use the black cyano meant for tires. It's easier to see where you're putting it, it's more flexible, and has a longer working time. For smaller flat etched parts I'll also use watch crystal cement.
--
- Rufus

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Some hobby store sell cyano under a "store brand", but I think it all comes from same place. Look for it as "tire cement". It's just slightly thicker than thick clear cyano, but because it's black it's far more easy to see and apply for small parts. It has a bit longer working time, and is fairly easy to clean/scrape off when partially set. It tends to gel in the bottle though...seems like I'm always buying a new bottle of it...
I generally apply cyano (even the black stuff) using a needle in a pin vise, or a sharpened toothpick. Watch crystal cement works about like white glue, except it's far stronger and tougher - put down a dot and then you can poke the part around with a needle to nudge it into place. Once set, it's *stuck*.
<http://www.micromark.com/watch-crystal-cement-two-1and3-oz-tubes,7468.html
I bought two tubes of this stuff over a decade ago and haven't gone through it yet - I'm still using the first tube; small amount goes a long way. I also use it for installing canopies...won't use anything else. And I always apply glues metal to plastic, or plastic to plastic - never over/through paint.
I was using both black cyano and watch crystal cement just last night to put the etched hinges on the deck plates of my 1/72 Revell Type VII u-boat. There's 48 of them little suckers, about the size of a pin head. Found it far easier to work with the watch crystal cement...got eight more of them to lay down today, then I'm done with that eye-crosser.
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: OK, I'll start. Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage : : could. Then comes the assembly. Generally the kit pieces fit pretty well : with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of seams. Following : : fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to the fuselage, those : pesky seams still show up in several places and parts of the sink holes : still need some work. :     I like Tamiya thin cement - the green topped bottle. I use a lot of tamiya cement to close the gaps - the glue capillaries very well, and it tends to draw the plastic into the seam.
    Mr. Surfacer 500 is still my favorite filler. I apply with a toothpick (wooden), and let it sit for around 24 hours. If an additional application is required, I add it.
    A lot of elbow grease and rubbing alcohol will remove Mr. Surfacer if you have detail you don't want to risk. Add some favorite brew (alcohol) to the mix as required. Otherwise, I use x-acto blades to cut off excess filler, x-acto blades to scrap the filler off (works best on convex or flat surfaces. Avoid on concave surfaces), files and sandpaper if I don't want to invest the time rubbing the surface down with alcohol.
    As for Squadron Green - I find I swear at it much more than I have ever sworn by it - it never stops shrinking.
                            Bruce
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"I like bad!" Bruce Burden Austin, TX.
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How about the Squadron White, Bruce? That supposedly claims to be a little smoother/finer. I don't see much difference and have stuck with the Green just cause its a little easier to see when applied in the seam or divot.
T2
"Bruce Burden" wrote in message wrote: : OK, I'll start. Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage : : could. Then comes the assembly. Generally the kit pieces fit pretty well : with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of seams. Following : : fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to the fuselage, those : pesky seams still show up in several places and parts of the sink holes : still need some work. : I like Tamiya thin cement - the green topped bottle. I use a lot of tamiya cement to close the gaps - the glue capillaries very well, and it tends to draw the plastic into the seam.
Mr. Surfacer 500 is still my favorite filler. I apply with a toothpick (wooden), and let it sit for around 24 hours. If an additional application is required, I add it.
A lot of elbow grease and rubbing alcohol will remove Mr. Surfacer if you have detail you don't want to risk. Add some favorite brew (alcohol) to the mix as required. Otherwise, I use x-acto blades to cut off excess filler, x-acto blades to scrap the filler off (works best on convex or flat surfaces. Avoid on concave surfaces), files and sandpaper if I don't want to invest the time rubbing the surface down with alcohol.
As for Squadron Green - I find I swear at it much more than I have ever sworn by it - it never stops shrinking.
Bruce
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I like bad!" Bruce Burden Austin, TX.
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Squadron white is finer grained, but cracks and falls out...very easily.
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I've never tried it, but I wonder if the White might benefit from the Swannys acetone/fingernail polish remover method? Would let it get more "bite" on the surface.
T2
"Rufus" wrote in message
Squadron white is finer grained, but cracks and falls out...very easily.
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I've had some luck mixing Testors liquid glue (from the bottle) with putties, but only in small amounts...and have never been able to find anything that works with Squadron putties.
I tried filling in bubbles in Squadron green with the white stuff...it sanded down nice, then cracked and flaked off. Then I went to Dr. Microtools red putty, and that stuff was fantastic. And of course they stopped making it. Testors red putty is similar, but the tube I got wasn't mixed right and became gummy. So I don't buy it anymore.
Since I found Tamiya putty I never use anything else now. That stuff is the best!
--
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I've been using this stuff for a few years. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Car/Care/Products/Product- Catalog/Pages/?PC_7_RJH9U5230ONO70I0C3275H2K94000000 _nid=FLPZ9HDTFTgsXRMSG6848Wgl4D7WG9JX0Hbl It works as well as any other putty, and is much cheaper than hobby brands.
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Jessica wrote:

I've known people that also use this - a long time ago I used to use a grey bondo putty that worked really well. And I've been told that one tube is big enough to pretty much last a lifetime...given that it's shelf life is that long!
Good choice, based on what the folks I've known that use it say.
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Looks like that one is obsolete. How about the 937? http://www.shop3m.com/60455055982.html?WT.z_bynt=1
T2
"Jessica" wrote in message
I've been using this stuff for a few years. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Car/Care/Products/Product- Catalog/Pages/?PC_7_RJH9U5230ONO70I0C3275H2K94000000 _nid=FLPZ9HDTFTgsXRMSG6848Wgl4D7WG9JX0Hbl It works as well as any other putty, and is much cheaper than hobby brands.
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email.me:

Smaller tube for higher price. Bloody typical : (
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Probably just enough top maybe use before it turns into a hockey puck...
T2
"Jessica" wrote in message email.me:

Smaller tube for higher price. Bloody typical : (
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email.me:

Haven't run into that problem yet, although my last tube was heading that way by the time I finished it.
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I have a hard time getting the cap on the Squadron Green to seal properly. I get green hockey pucks. Rather wondering if I could take and old, clean paint jar... fill it half with squadron Green and then about a third with acetone. Mix it up and cap it tight. Haven't tried it yet...
T2
"Jessica" wrote in message email.me:

Haven't run into that problem yet, although my last tube was heading that way by the time I finished it.
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I always keep a couple rolls of paper towels on my bench. Get in the habit of wiping down the threads on the tube/cap with a paper towel every time you open/close the cap. I do that with all my putty tubes, paint jars, etc. They never get stuck and always seal if you keep them clean.
...doesn't work so well with cyano.
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Haven't had the problem with the Squadron Green til the most recent tube. Seems like the threads are a little looser.
T2
"Rufus" wrote in message
I always keep a couple rolls of paper towels on my bench. Get in the habit of wiping down the threads on the tube/cap with a paper towel every time you open/close the cap. I do that with all my putty tubes, paint jars, etc. They never get stuck and always seal if you keep them clean.
...doesn't work so well with cyano.
--
- Rufus

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