Yeah, that's usually how it's done, "wash and wipe" is one term. It works better on flat finishes than gloss. hth
The Keeper (of too much crap)
yellow) the seams on the doors and hood are what makes it look realistic. If I just painted my model as is with a lighter color the hood and door seams would be the same color and not black or darker to create the effect that there's a gap in there like a real car.>>
Well, with all the tips on painting cars it's nice to see this tidbit has caught someone else's attention besides mine--I don't recall it ever being mentioned before. Since I do 90% aircraft, 9% sci-fi and that last 1% is where cars come in I don't think about it much. but wifey has a VW she wants to get done and I am tasked with teaching duties. While sitting on the front steps nursing a Miller Lite, listening to the grill sizzle and pondering life's imponderables, I noticed the door and hood seams on the three vehicles occupying my driveway--one light blue, one medium green and one maroon. The door, hood and trunk/tailgate seams appeared black on all three--no body color was visible. One neighbor's car is white, another black--same effect on both. A revelation perhaps, but after another Miller Lite and more pondering the realization came that to see color requires light--no light gets into these seams, hence, no color to be seen. An experiment was in order. I scribed some seams into a piece of scrap sheet, then using a .3mm black drafting pen, filled in some of the seams, then painted over all of them, varying the paint from a mist coat to a normal full coat. The black under fully coated seams disappeared, but the mist coated areas were still dark. The seams I didn't use the pen on were obviously full color, and looked very unrealistic. Then I ran the pen down them, and put another light coat over that. The color was now deeper and normal, and the seams appeared dark as they should. I also ran the pen down the seam after the full coat and that looked too dark. What this told me was the process is to paint a mist coat or two, line the seams, then a final light coat which will get the color depth right, but won't cover the black seams.
When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. --Leonardo Da Vinci
Well, maybe the concept is universal. Perhaps they didn't bring it up coz if you know how to handle seams on a model plane the same could be done to a car. ;) But thank you all for complimenting me on my developing skill for having a keen eye on detail. It was after all, from all your expert guidance. heheeheh...
I had good luck using a permanent ink pen. I got several at a local art supply store, in varying sizes. What I choose for panel lines is generally the smallest offered, which is 005. When I bought this one I got two more in graduated sizes, just to have options. I was working on a Fujimi RX7 Veilside kit, and painted it silver. The blackened panel lines really set it off, and add realism. I found the
005 pen fit perfectly within the lines, and I simply followed them around the doors, rear hatch, and headlight covers. One thing though....it might be wise to consider these quickly expendable, because the hard tip required to dispense the ink in such a fine line is prone to stop flowing. Always be sure your paint is totally dry before marking, or it will coat the pen tip. Best of luck.Randy
We're living in a world that's been pulled over our eyes to blind us from the truth. Where are you, white rabbit?
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