waaaaaaay ot

You haven't re-invented the wheel but you have rediscovered an old technique. When I was a kid moving into "proper" modelling (mid 1960s) rather than kit assembling that was a recognised method of cockpit framing. In truth I think I did the Bv 141 the same way when it first came out. Just goes to show that you don't have to spend huge amounts on after market cockpit glazing to get a good result. Incidently it looks better when you've sanded the moulded glazing bars off and repolished the canopy. I be interested what effect Future would have on the tape. I feel an experiment coming on.

LOL!

Yeah, good technique; the few I've done that way (and drafting tape) tend to lift after a decade or so-curling up at the edges sometimes. Bare metal foil works better. hth

The Keeper (of too much crap)

Also, try it with decal painted to match. Curt

"C Knowles" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:eY0qc.1201$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com...

I am impressed how You all did it - I really am. I just did it with a fine brush and nothing else ... took me one hour just for the canope and much attention not to make a mistake, but it can be done. You just need a still hand, of course.

Greetings, Jan

truthfully it's a 3' model and not 10". real close it looks like laid on rather than painted detail. the furure laid the tape down and is holding it. i may take a 10-0 brush for a little dullcote on the tape. i know it is 10,000% better than my painting would have been. i'm getting much better on larger glass, but that was the most complicated and small i've seen. with the added detail in the greenhouse, i didn't want to fudge the glass.

i want to try foil, but it's so damn expensive. where's the right candy bar? (no, not the 60's stripper, that's candy barr.)

sorry, you mean paint all the decals? not me, baby...let the brave men step up.

i would love to be that good with a brush. but i shake from meds and the old eyes are kind fuzzy. my thumb has a camo scheme half the week.

This is another old dodge. What he meant was to paint a decal with the framing colour, cut it into strips and then apply the decal strips as framing. I've done this to. I used to use the dinky little name decals that Airfix used to put on their sheets. But nowadays you can buy blank decal sheet.

now i got it, thanks

Jeeez man, do you know how OLD she is? EEEEEWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!

-- John The history of things that didn't happen has never been written. . - - - Henry Kissinger

That's been my experience with Scotch Tape too. Many years ago I was into scratch building W.W.I aircraft and to replicate the wing ribs I would use sandpaper wrapped around a piece of old broom handle to sand the "scallops into the balsa wood wings and after a couple of coats of sanding sealer I would use tape for the wing ribs, followed by the color coat. Several hot and muggy Baltimore Summers later there was adhesive working out from underneath the tape and the tape was curling up and coming off. I later found that strips of draftsmen's linen held down by clear dope worked much better and were quite permanent.

Bill Shuey

Another tip when painting canopy frames that works well if there are raised lines for the frames. First, a dip in Future. After the Future has dried, paint the frames with a fine brush. Now take a piece of sprue and file the end to a flat chisel point and carefully scrape away any "slops" that are over the frames on to the clear area. With a little practice I can scrape a very straight line with this plastic chisel.

Bill Shuey

that's what i did. helps the tape stick.

near 80 now.

that hasn't worked very well for me.

Christina would never forgive you! :Þ

Bill Banaszak, MFE

That's pretty much the way I did it - 20 years ago or so. I don't think I could pull that off anymore. Now I use Tamiya's masking tape and do a number of frames at a shot. It takes much longer but nowadays almost everything does... ;)

Bill Banaszak, MFE

takes me all night to do what i used to do all night.