Window Tinting

Hi Paul, Another Aussie and Ozemailer! Where are you from?

To answer your question you have several choices depending on skill level and budget.

1. Exposed 35mm negative film, assuming its large enough. Developed negatives showing pure black (white) would be ideal.
2. Tamiya Smoke, airbrush it on and when it starts to build up it will get very dark very quick. This is probably what you want but be aware you're unlikely to see through it if you let it go very dark.
3. Rit fabric dye. You can (so I'm told) soak clear styrene windows in it to get a tint. Make sure you wear gloves etc.
4. 1:1 window tint offcuts. Visit a window tinting place, they'll have plenty of suitable offcuts.

Paul here is how I have tinted windows. Take some clear acrylic gloss such as Tamiya,Gunze, even Future the wonder floor polish. Then take some dark colored (black, dk blue) drafting ink, or I am sure caligraphy ink will do as well. Mix in a few drops of ink into the clear. The more ink the darker the tint. Then spray this mixture on the "INSIDE" of the glass you wish to tint. You should build this up slowly as not to get any runs because the cars glass is curved and the ink/gloss will want to puddle if the part is layed face down. Anyway spray in light coats. More coats and more ink in the mixture yields darker tints. Hope this helps, Cheers, Max Bryant

Hi Paul,

I've had NO luck with Tamiya X-19 Smoke. I went to great lengths to thoroughly clean the clear plastic on my Rav4 and still got 'fish eye' in the surface. I think the surface is so smooth that the X-19 wants to bead of it.

Although I haven't actualy don't it on a finished model, I experimented with a couple drops of India Ink in Future and it levels out beautifully. And if you mess up, Windex (or any cleaner with ammonia) will remove the Future and you can try again until satisfied. BTW, I tried adding X-19 to tint the Future and although both acrylics, it was like trying to mix oil and water.

Ken

ive had good luck with mixing the same kind of coloring, or probably just food coloring, with a bit of the miracle substance, future floor wax, and then just brushing it on the inside of the glass. it self levels well after brushing, removes easily with ammonia if it doesnt work out, and builds up darkness well with 2 or more coats. best of all worlds.

Ken, Try adding a drop of dish detergent to your acrylic paint, it helps prevent the beading. I use Tamiya and Gunze smoke with no problems. Sam

Thanks for all your tips.

I'll have a play and see how they work out.

Paul J

There is a liquid "stained glass" paint in the craft shops. These fill in the cells created by the acrylic bead forming the "lead" frame of a simullated stained glass picture. project to give the appearance of a stained glass pane. The art supplies shop also carry this type of clear coloured paint.

Real Tint works great. Go by any shop and get a few pieces for free and apply it.