blue foam sheets

On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 20:39:14 -0400, Wolf Kirchmeir wrote:


Better yet, add a double layer roof, use white or light colored standing seam roof panels over a continuous air gap from soffit to ridge, with a continuous venting ridge cap. Inside the inner sheathing put foil-faced rigid foam for radiant as well as conductive insulation.
I sometimes think I'd like to have a heat pump, but know a lot of folks around here who've had less than satisfactory experience. We just had to replace our furnace (cracked heat exchanger), and while we were at it replaced the twenty year old A/C, originally a nominal SEER 10, surely less now and prone to problems as well as noisy. The new one is 19.5 SEER, has dual compressors (large and small) and is much quieter. The furnace is 95% efficient, and with a max exhaust temp of 114 F, they have to use poly pipe for the "chimney" - metal would rust out.
--
Steve

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Steve Caple wrote:

Yes, I've thought of that type of cooling arrangement, too, I'd like to know how effective it is.

Air-to=-air heat pumps have a relatively low gain factor, on the order of 1:1.5 to 1:2. Ground effect heat pumps have gain factors of 1:3 and up. Well worth while. Main cost is drilling what amounts to a well, which will have to be 100ft or even deeper, depending on local geology (water table, type of rock, etc.)
BTW, an air-conditioner is a heat pump. So's a fridge.
--
wolf k.

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On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 08:33:48 -0400, Wolf Kirchmeir wrote:

There have been problems in the past with water that has a high mineral content. Things got plugged up in short order. That problem may have been fixed, I haven't checked into heat pumps lately.
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Check out Ice Energy's Ice Bear.
Paul -- Excuse me, I'll be right back. I have to log onto a server in Romania and verify all of my EBay, PayPal, bank and Social Security information before they suspend my accounts.
Working the rockie road of the G&PX
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Hi,
this is not in the spirit of "foam", but works quite well for me:
I built the usual wooden frame with plywood on top. In the hilly areas I used packaging carton and plywood leftovers to model the terrain contour. The track bed is assembled from a thin cork plate, cut into 7mm stripes and glued down three stripes for each track. The terrain itself is made from old newspapers, cut into small strips and glued down using the glue offered for wall-paper (don't know the name). After a few layers this gets real stiff and can be finished using (a small amount) of plaster (or anything like plaster, probably plaster with sawdust?). The whole thing is quite easy to work with (drill, sand, saw...) and you can simply cut the paper if you don't like the form (before the plaster ;-)
Actually my layout consits of two parts, the back part is placed in an open cupboard and the front part hinged and removable ;-)
As to fire-safety, I don't think plaster burns that well ;-) Thanks to the stiff paper the thing stays reasonably light and is stable for movin' around a bit.
Total cost (for my 150x80cm - that's about 5'x3' - layout): - wood: ~20$ - packaging carton: free - old newspaper: free - 1 or 2 pack of glue: 1-3$ each - 5kg plaster: ~8$ - cork: ~5$ - colors, scenery, whatever ;-)
The only thing I'm still worrying about is the mountain-range in the back. It has to be removable as to facilitate access to the hidden yard. So I have to do a construction of some kind as a base for the removable sections... At the moment I'm fitting infrared light detectors to the hidden yard, so I'll know when a train is blocking a switch once it's closed ;-) Signalling at it's best ;-)
Just to add my ideas ;-)
Ciao..
PS: Yesterday I did run my first train with the self-made control pult: a "touch screen" for the switches and on-off-on switches for train power combined with two throttles ;-) Nice thing... I had to short the "safety circuit", though - it's not yet connected properly... It will only allow train power, once both the front and back parts are connected properly.
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Bernhard Agthe wrote:

On mine, I make all mountains removable. The mountains area a seperate structure, and I place a couple of wooden dowels (to insert into a corresponding hole in the base) in the bottom of each mountain to hold them in place. In fact many of the mountains are made of multiple sections for easy access to tunnels, etc.
Just place trees, etc. to cover any seam in the hills.
Scott
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