Cupler Changing Problem

snipped-for-privacy@RRMAIL.COM (Tim) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

Scale, gauge, mounted coupler type info please ?

it's a HO Scale with 1 Truck Mounted Hornhook whitch I Wish To Change to 2 K-D#5's

snipped-for-privacy@RRMAIL.COM (Tim) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

That helps.

Sadly, I can't help you (dedicated N scaler) but I'm sure one of the HO- folks here can use this info to help you along.

Good luck!

The best way is to pull the coupler pockets off of the trucks and put the couplers on the body. This does entail some scratchbuilding effort but if you can do it, it will be well worth the effort. The MKD-5 coupler and pocket will probably do the job just fine. The other is to figure out how the coupler pocket comes apart and use the appropiately recommended coupler number in the pocket. The choice will probably be in the level of work that you can do on the model.

-- Bob May Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less. Works evevery time it is tried!

Check either the Kadee website, or the Walther's catalog for a recommended Kadee coupler. They have a lot of 'em and if you can obtain the suggested coupler it usually mounts more easily. Any railroad hobby shop will have a counter copy of the Walther's book that you can check. Most locomotives have a "hot" chassis, so you want insulating couplers to permit you to double head the locomotives without short circuits. It is usually possible to adapt the "standard" #5 Kadee coupler into anything, but it can be more work than using the suggested coupler, which is why Kadee offers about a zillion different styles. As a general rule body mounted couplers are a better deal than "talgo" mount. The "talgo" (swivels with the truck) coupler tends to derail cars in backing moves. The pushing force tends to c*ck the truck a little bit sidewise and then a wheel flange climbs up on the railhead, and bang, you are on t he ground. Locomotives are heavier than cars, and less likely to derail this way. If a drop in Kadee conversion coupler exists for the locomotive, I would go with it. You mentioned that the locomotive only has a coupler on one end? This is a little unusual. The Alco C628 is a road switcher which usually came with front and rear couplers from the factory. Could it be that the coupler on one end is just missing, and can be replaced with the same type Kadee as the other end?

David J. Starr