DCC Loco Creeping problem

It has been a while since I ran my DCC Loco's and when I put the first one (an Atlas G-35 Dual Mode) on the track today it wanted to creep along even when
throttle was set to 0. Could not give any commands at all. Tried resetting address and that did nothing to help.
I double checked the mode and it was set for Digital.
I put another Atlas G-35 on the track and it would not pick up the address either. It however did not creep. I never had this problem before with these Loco's.
Is there a way to set the Digitrax back to all factory defaults or does this happen when you unplug the power supply? I have no clue if I input some incorrectly or what. A CV or something else?
This is a Digitrax Super Empire
Thanks Chris
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sounds like the loco has dirty feet. If the power is to the loco, you should be able to control it unless the address is wrong. Unfortunately, there is no jumper that you can use to restore defaults.
-- Bob May
rmay at nethere.com http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net
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If it's creeping, it has a command to creep. You may think you have set it to zero, but it may still be running at 1 or 2 on the speed steps. Just acquire the locomotive again and reset it to zero speed.
Some systems you can look at the commands goping to the locomotive and see what speed step it is really at.
Decoder Pro has this capability with the Digitrax system.
Howard
Bob May wrote:

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Howard R Garner wrote:

It does not matter what address you use. It still creeps as soon as you put power to the tracks. I put in three different addresses and the same thing happened.
If like you said "If it's creeping, it has a command to creep". Where would this command be and wouldn't it be address specific?
I did get the other loco going. I was off a digit for the address.
Chris
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Chris wrote:

Well, until you get THIS loco to respond to something from the controller, I would think that you may have NOT addressed it correctly.
JMHO
Chuck D.
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Chris schrieb:

Why don't you just put it on your programming track and read the address? Also, are you sure it's in a consist?
Tobi
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Tobias Meyer wrote:

Also check the CV's for start. This may be other then zero and xausing your creep problem
Howard
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He can't do this, it's a DB150.

power to the tracks. I put in three different addresses and the same thing happened.< Without readback it's difficult to analyze. Changing to 3 different addresses tends to indicate there is a decoder problem. I'm not sure what decoder Atlas used but it is possible for the output of decoders to "leak" and the engine will creep. I have one engine like that, however the creep is very slow, 1mm a day or so.
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There's no simple jumper, but there are CVs you can set in ops mode by plugging a handheld into the booster directly, or (if you're lucky) using JMRI DecoderPro.
Full Super Empire Builder manual here: <http://digitrax.com/ftp/superempire.pdf
Booster resetting is covered in section 26.0. I'm no sure if that's what's causing the problem, but it's worth a try. Make a point to turn off analog support if you don't need it - I've definitely seen it cause odd behavior before if address 00 has a nonzero throttle setting.
If you have JMRI, another good thing to do is go to the slot editor and delete all the active slots. You might lose some consists if you do this, but it will clear out any weirdness in loco assignment and cancel any throttle settings. *
--
* PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
like corkscrews.
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Chris wrote:

Chris Happens to me all the time. Guess what it's been for me. A stuck button on the throttle. For some reason once in a while a button will stick on my DT150.. Causes everything to go haywire and nothing responds.. Good luck Mike Mueller
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OpSw #39 is reset, but it won't do you any good. I suspect there's something else wrong.
If one creeps and the other doesn't, it makes me wonder if the decoder install (or the decoder itself) is bad. If you've got a multimeter, you can check the installation, at least for isolation.
Set on resistance (ohms): Measure from left-hand wheel to left-hand wheel. Should register 0 ohms. Measure from left-hand wheel to right-hande wheel. Should register high ohms. (Close to infinity, but sometimes electronic circuits change that.) Measure from right motor output to left-hand wheel. Should register high ohms. Measure from left motor output to left-hand wheel. Should register high ohms. Repeat for right hand wheel.
If you remove the decoder, there should be no connection (infinite ohms) where the above states "high ohms".
Puckdropper
--
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Chris wrote:

Well, it appears it is the decoder. Ordered a new one last night. Should be here some time next week.
Thanks for all the help
Chris
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Chris wrote:

Well, it appears it is the decoder. Ordered a new one last night. Should be here some time next week.
Thanks for all the help
Chris
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Provided it's not fried, it's sometimes possible to 'rescue' a messed up decoder by setting the CVs that return them to factory settings. You might just have the CV for the start voltage messed up, or the speed steps (read the manual section on "status editing") not set right. Don't toss the decoder if it doesn't look burned out until you've tried a little fiddling. *
--
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PV wrote:

Been through all that already. It now goes into the scrap box for when I feel like "fiddling".
Chris
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like "fiddling".< If it's just the motor part and the functions are good they can be used. If it's the CPU might as well put it in the trash. A test is to put a light on one of the functions and address it to what you think the address was. Or a reset, etc. Like you say when you have some spare time.
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