KATO sd90/43mac how to assemble..????

Hi all,

I just sold all my AC Marklin loks, and bought my first DC Kato lok, an EMD sd90/43mac CEFX #123.

To my surprise i find a lot of tiny parts obviously still to be attached to the lok :-((

It says in the manual where to attach them but not HOW..!!

Do I use glue or not..?? also what about the colour of these parts , I assume I have to paint them..if so how do i get the correct colour ..???

I really don't like the way these loks are shipped with so minimal information.

thanks for any help to get me going..

Geert

Reply to
Geert Zandman
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Reply to
Matthew

Hi Mathew,

thanks for the quick reply , I will give it a try.

regards Geert

Reply to
Geert Zandman

=>> I really don't like the way these loks are shipped with so minimal =>> information.

Er, it's assumed that you are serious enough to have some pictures of the protypes that you are modelling. After all, you are laying out major $$$$.

The reason the parts are left off is to minimise shipping damage.

Wolf Kirchmeir ................................. If you didn't want to go to Chicago, why did you get on this train? (Garrison Keillor)

Reply to
Wolf Kirchmeir

I've found that you don't need glue on most of the Kato models. Some parts may need a small drop, but usually things are fine. I assemble it dry, and if certain parts are falling off I put a small drop of glue on those parts. As to painting, if you leave everything unpainted it will be close to prototype, but there will be some differences. If you need prototype photos I can send you a few.

Marc

Reply to
M G

YUP!

They are supposedly pressure attached. However, I found that my first Kato lost most of it's grab irons on the first lap around the club track.

Here is what I do now (I'm a newbie so this could be all wrong):

I remove the shell and completely disassemble it (remove the cab, windows and light-pipes. Tqake your time and be patient.

If I am are going to renumber the engine, I do that now.

I attach all the grabs. You may have to drill the holes in order to get them inserted (I think the instructions recommend a drill size). I put the tinyest spot of glue on the back side of the grab (inside the shell).

Put in the decoder if you are going DCC. At this point I usually place the naked drive/frame on the programming track an assign a decoder number. Then put it on live track and do a basic checkout, go forward and backward, make sure the lights work. Simple checkout stuff.

Reassemble the shell and reattach it to the drive/frame. Change out the couplers if necessary (I have to shim the Kadee centering spring and use accent glue or rubber cement to hold the shim in place while reassembling).

Good luck and enjoy, Paul

P.S. - as Matthew pointed out, you shouldn't have to paint unless it's an undec.

Reply to
Paul Newhouse

Usually all the parts can be pressed into the appropriate holes. On some models running a drill in first may be helpful, but if this is overdone then the parts will have to be glued to stay on. CA from inside the shell would be recommended, but you should try to avoid having to do this. I find the parts are best held with needle nose pliers as this is the best way to get sufficient grip and pressure to force the parts in. Kato has now made the various pieces thinner and closer to scale which makes getting a good grip to push them in more difficult than before. It can help to use spru nippers to cut the ends to a point for easier starting in the hole. There is definitely a learning curve to working with the Kato. Note that the parts are molded in Delrin which does not glue with standard polystyrene cement such as Testors or Tenax.

As far as painting, some of the parts will definitely be the wrong color as can be found from photographs of prototypes. Also white and/or yellow on certain grabs will be seen in photos and will have to be added with paint. Pactra RC car/airplane paints (the solvent type, not the new water based) seems to work well. This stuff needs laquer thinner to clean up but can be brushed on nicely.

Compared to Atlas models Kato is behind the curve on assembly for sure.

Reply to
David B. Redmond

Hi all,

I am impressed !!! Thanks to everybody for their inputs !!

Reply to
powermax

Craftsman 5 pc. Mini-Pliers set, I got these for christmas and they work great for putting on detail parts. I was originally using tweezers, but these work 10 times better. Here is a link.

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As for glue I use, I use some stuff called BOND 527 Multi-Purpose cement seems to work good. Made by Bond Adhesives Company. My idea of putting a small amount of glue to hold each part in place is if one would come loose without the glue on then it might come off and get lost.

Reply to
Matthew

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Yeah, I have asimilar set that I got as OSH (the other name for Sears). The flatnose pliers are perfect for latching on to the grab irons and getting them started. I put a touch of standard styrene cement on the back side, I don't think it does much with the Delrin but it melts a wee little bit of the shell near the hole so it conforms tightly and wedges the grab iron in place. I haven't had to put any thing on the wipers, they seem to be wedged fairly well. I only glue one end of the stairway hand rail to the cab.

The side rails are big enough that you can just slap them in place. But the flatnose pliers are great for holding on while you press the two side rail pieces together.

Reply to
Paul Newhouse

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