Train Room

The contractors just poured the concrete for my new "train room" connected to my house. My imagination is now going wild with the new
possibilities of layout design. It has been a long time coming. The lighting will be natural light. The room when finished will have glass on three sides so will have plenty of illumination during the day. I haven't decided what I will do for lighting at night. Any suggestions on the kind of light to use?s John in the Indian Nations
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On 6/12/2009 9:49 PM NICHE541 spake thus:

May you rot in hell (just kidding).
I think this is what they call a "gloat".
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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I'd worry more about people seeing in and theft than lighting for night ops. Not too mention the heat gain from all that glass - it's an easy bet you've got at least one wall that gets the full force of the sun. At least one thing on your layout would be prototypical - sun kinks in your trackwork! Hope you got a monster a/c unit for your space.
--
Jack N2MPU
Proud NRA Life Member
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The burglar alarm for our Train Room is linked to the one for the house.
Air conditioning is a real problem with our setup. I didn't want to devote a 220 line for the purpose because that would have required upgrading the box for the house so I've used a large 110 unit and a separate portable plus column and ceiling fans. Still gets into the 90's--but it's a dry heat. :>)
--
Carl Heinz
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Carl Heinz wrote:

Carl Call an experienced Glass Person. They make a UV film that will reflect at least 50% of the heat. It's a commercial product and will pay for it self with the off set of cooling costs. That will help cut down room temps by 20 degrees. It will also help retain heat during the winter months. Mike M
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mike mueller wrote:

And I trust you've used triple glazing and loads of insulation in the walls.
cheers, wolf
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My Train Room is a converted 18 x 30' greenhouse. I'm pretty sure an earlier description mentioned that the roof was replaced by commercial screen room ceiling panels which consists of an outer and inner aluminum layer with approx 3" of styrofoam as a sandwich. Most of the side walls have been covered with 4 x 8 corrugated plastic sheets to provide a surface for backdrops. Fiberglass insulation was placed between the fiberglass side walls and the plastic sheets. The floor is now a 4" concrete slab over the previous layer of approx 8" of crushed rock from greenhouse days. Although this tends to help maintain a more comfortable temperature during spring and early summer, the heat accumulation tends to retard night cooling. When it gets to the mid 60's outside, it's still the low 70's in the Train Room. I did retain a fairly large exhaust fan from greenhouse days that kicks in automatically when the inside temperature reaches the mid 80's. This helps keep the inside temperature down around 10 degrees when I'm not out there and prevents the inside temperature from reaching over the mid 90's.
A large evaporative cooler served well when it was a greenhouse since I had the need to maintain humidity at least at 80% (phaelonopsis orchids). This was replaced by a large 110 window air conditioner since the high humidity was not something in which I wanted to keep my trains. I've supplemented this with a protable air conditioner, ceiling fans and column fans which I run when I'm out there.
So I've had to find some non-standard solutions to a non-standard construction.
The suggestions for the original poster who has a more "standard" structure should serve him well.
--
Carl Heinz
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Carl Heinz wrote:

[...]
Sounds good to me.
Have fun!
wolf k.
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On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 21:49:39 -0700 (PDT), NICHE541

Sounds great. RE: all that natural light! It will fade the colors on nearly everything, strong stuff sunlight. Might want to design in some sort of indirect lighting and UV filtering.
Jim
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On 6/13/2009 11:57 AM Jim spake thus:

I wouldn't worry about it unless you get direct sunlight in the windows, which, it's true, will fade stuff.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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wrote:

Weathering ...
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White LEDs for the locomotive headlights, and streetlights, lots of streetlights. Add in a few building lights here and there (maybe a porch light or two also), and you've got yourself a really cool looking night time layout.
For general lighting, many people seem to prefer either hidden or directional lights. Conventional incandescant bulbs will be easier to dim, but flourescent bulbs will run much cooler and use less energy.
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
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Windows in a "trainroom " ?
All that space and windows that will be blocked by backdrops ?
Tsk tsk tsk, most model railroaders close in all the windows.
By the way, what size is the room ?
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There will be curtains that will cut out all daylight if wanted. There is also installed UV filtering on the double paned windows. Plenty of room for back drop as the room is 20x22. This is not gloating just 30 years of planning. The Mrs has been deceased for 11 years so no problems there. HO scale at a desk top elivation and O Scale on the floor for the grandsons. This is how I shall end my days. John in the Indian Nations
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On 6/17/2009 10:25 AM NICHE541 spake thus:

A 20x22 train room and you're not gloating?
Don't worry--you're entitled to it. Any of us would in your place.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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128 x 24 with NO windows.
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On 6/17/2009 11:02 PM the OTHER Mike spake thus:
>

I get it--you're in a club, right?
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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Yes, figured I would never have anything larger then maybe 24 x 24 ( in my dreams ). My trainroom as a kid was 24 x 8 with a 5' ceiling ( was a storage room over the garage). When I found the club I figured why try to do anything at home. I live maybe 20 blocks from the club and have 24 hour access..............I'm BLESSED. If it were not for the founding members ( who started as kids in the 50's) buying the building in 73, I would not have what we have now.
NOT gloating, just very BLESSED and apprectiave of how fortunate I am.
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I am a retired physics professor with a love for model railroading and a love for wildlife,flora and fauna. The windows allow observation during the day as well as at night when I choose. No I am not a club member, I was once but now I live out in the wilderness and it is not practical to travel to the city. I am amazed by the negative response by some people in this group. Some people spend their money on new cars etc. I choose to drive a 1987 ford pickup and spend the money I would spend on a new vehicle on a new room.. I have no debts nor credit cards. Someone ask the size so I told them. If that sounds like gloating then it is their problem not mine. I hope everyone here can build a bigger one before the end of their life. If you can conceive a goal and believe it you can achieve it. You can do anything you want to do in this country . It is up to you. Work Hard and save your money. John in the Indian Nations
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John-
My train room is a former 18x30' fiberglass and steel frame greenhouse.
The ceiling needed to be replaced since the filon panels leaked. It's now a series of aluminum/styrofoam sandwich panels.
The crushed rock floor was replaced with a concrete slab and the evaporative cooler was replaced with a window air conditioner supplemented by a portable.
I still use the overhead gas heater I used when it was a greenhouse.
I opted to cover most of the walls with 4x8 plastic sandwich panels with insulation wedged between the panels and the fiberglass. This was done primarily for two reasons. The first was that of trying to get some control over temperature. The second was to provide a surface for backdrops.
Most folks will warn you against fluorescent lighting. I use it. However, I only have the stock currently in use actually on the layout. The balance is stored in a series of utility carts which slide under the layout.
I can't really discuss scale related issues since it's my understanding that your primary layout is HO. Mine is 3 rail O with an emphasis on 1/4 scale.
I only run TMCC command and don't run conventional. So, the power comes from a series of Lionel Track Power Controllers (TPC's) and 180w Lionel power packs.
Although I have a control panel, I don't use it very much. Such things as switching are now also controlled using Lionel SC-2 switch controllers. About the only thing I still use the control panel for is uncoupling. I haven't rigged them for TMCC control. Might someday.
I use AtlasO track and switches.
My response is probably a bit of overkill to your basic lighting question.
Structure and vehicle lighting are 12VDC warm whites. I have a separate power supply for this function. I use LED's from Evan Designs ( www.ModelTrainSoftware.com ). I also like their Model Builder software package for such things as making scale signs. Their import function is quite handy for making unique signs and you can select the desired scale.
Hope this helps.
--
Carl Heinz
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