Whiny Spectrum Shay

Trouble is, oil applied at the factory can creep into places where it's not wanted, and after a time it can oxidise and gum up the works. Since Bachmann can't control the shelf time etc, they elected (rightly IMO) to not lubricate their engines. They could make oiling from outside the engine possible, perhaps by placing an (unprototypical) hole in the bottom of the boiler or frame.

HTH

Wolf Kirchmeir spake thus:

Wait a minute--is this true? I kind of doubt it; it's hard to believe they would ship an assembled, RTR loco (which presumably is really "ready to run") without at least minimal lubrication. Lubrication on the motor bearings and even the wheel and gear bushings is not going to migrate that extensively, from my experience. This sounds like MR mythology to me.

Well, maybe it is mythology. In any case, I've found that all B'mann engines I own ran/run a little noisy straight from the box, and a whole lot quieter after lubing. IMO, they rely on the "self-lubricating" properties of the engineering plastics they use for the gear train. But I'm prob. just constructing another myth. :-)

Yes, I found the same problem so can someone recommend the best (and easiest) way to lube the loco? Exactly what points need oil?

Thanks/Carter Braxton

Probably SOME truth to the rumor, At least LESS lubricant is being used. In the recent past there were some bad cases of over lubrication ruining the models while in the boxes. Bachmann was the worst for this, but Rivarossi sometimes had problems too. I've seen models where the foam packing was soaked with oil, and the paintwork damaged. Attempts to run such locos just created a big cloud of smoke as all the oil IN the motor burned off. Not pretty, and it didn't SMELL too good either.

Note that the 'BLI' models I have purchased recommend lubrication BEFORE running them.

Dan Mitchell ============

SNIPS

Good points.

For those with whiny Bachmann Shays, or other Bachmann Spectrum products coming new out of boxes, which lubes would you suggest?

-- Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged. If you really need to reply directly, try: jimdotmclaughlinatcomcastdotcom

And you know it is a dotnet not a dotcom address.

Carter Braxton spake thus:

Not having that model, I can only give you the general guidelines for lubrication, which pretty much apply to any model: light oil (any will do, contrary to popular mythology, except of course for cooking oil) on all high-speed bearings (like the motor), *applied sparingly*, light grease on lower-speed, larger bearings and contact points, like cardan shafts and truck gearboxes. The key is to apply the lube sparingly, whatever it is.

Someone else here will probably be able to give you more specific instructions for this loco.

Jim McLaughlin wrote: [...]

I use and recommend both Aero Car's and Labelle's lubes.

HTH

Which of the Labelle lubes for the engineering plastic / metal gears and worms?

Which for the motor bearings?

Same questions re the Aero Car lubes?

Thanks.

If any manufacturer recommends lubing after purchase, they must provide an easy method of doing so. I'm very mech-inclined but still find disassembling steam locos difficult; the average train owner is basically stuck with an internally unlubed engine. So I consider it criminal for Bachmann or others to ship products unlubed or underlubed with no easy way to reach the motor! Oil holes should be mandatory, which I just read exist on some Bachmanns now. Imagine buying a $25,000 auto and discovering there's no oil cap or even a hood that opens. A rough similar analogy.

BTW my Shay was lubed at factory--a touch of grease on the drive gears and a negligible amount on the linkage. I added LaBelle 106 grease on these and 108 light oil on all linkage. This is my custom when purchasing any loco. A Spectrum Decapod I just bought had a noisy click that quieted right down after oiling the linkage, especially the cylinder pistons.

Thanks everybody for your help, Robby

unlubed or underlubed with no easy way to reach the motor!< While I don't have all of them I find the BLI steamer the easiest to lub. They are designed like brass, usually three screws to remove and the boiler comes off. Maybe because one of the original partners in that company was a brass importer!