Maytag

Eisemann coils have an aux gap built into the secondary, always read open. Just make sure the basic connections are clean. Functional test with both plugs (set at 0.035) and never run with one secondary hanging in the air. OK if one plug fouls for a while. Have restored 6 of these and never found a bad coil.

For parts I've used

LG Simpson PO Box 211 Bluffton, OH 45817

He will send a parts list for a SASE

"bw" wrote:-

Marvin Mc C suggested it should measure around 8 1/2K from plug lead to plug lead, perhaps that was for the Wico mag? Anyway, mine is Eisemann and I am much heartened by your comments. Any other advice on these little engines most welcome - we don't have much of a knowledge base on them here in UK.

I saw a Wico version at a local sale, the flywheel has 6 blades instead of

1. Maybe 1 Wico out of 100 twins were made. Yes, the Eisemann will read about 8 kohms measured that way. I had forgotten that. My routine is to just test by hand spinning when I acquire an unknown mag.

Don't worry about dis-assembly, this design is very simple and nothing can go wrong for the average mechanic. One set screw for the air horn and one for the jet. The air horn base should be sealed on re-assembly with something like clear nail polish. The air horn control is really just a variable choke. Set to 1/3 turn open to start. When started, slowly turn open another 1/3 turn or so until smooth running. When assembling the mag to the main block, position the timing tab exactly between the two stop bosses. The timing can be fine tuned while running, but centered is best for a display engine. Sometimes a single plug will stop firing soon after firing normally. this design seems to be sensitive to plug cleanliness and gap setting. Just use good plugs and plug wires. Plugs are 14mm x 3/8 reach, gap to 35 to 37 thousandths. Factory manual says use 1:16 oil mix, but 1:24 should be ok. Also, there is a small tank vent hole near the set screws, make sure its not plugged.

These engines run with very low vibration when in good condition. They have a growing collector base due to the unusual design. I live not very far from Newton, IA so they are not terribly rare in this area, but they will never become less rare in the future. some collectors have dozens of these, check for websites. Don't forget to check eBay. Brent Wegher

Thanks Brent. Coil is currently cooking gently on top of a central heating radiator - we'll see how it gets on

Two more questions if you will indulge me for just a little a little longer ;-)

1. The crankshaft "oil retainers" - are these just pressed steel cups or should there be any packing within? I note 'Bob's small engine repair' site
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   says "not a seal" but they seem a little pointless otherwise.

1. I know the S-322 'long base' is sought after - have these ever been reproduced? The one on my engine is so badly finished compared to the other iron castings that I suspect it may not be original.

TIA

Just cups. AKA "slinger" type, the engines are known to spray oil from the starter side bearing.

Not that I've heard. Simpson does reproduce some parts for his business. I've seen long bases on eBay, but have never seen one on a twin in person. I have one of each of the other bases. I do own a long base single cylinder engine, it had a somewhat more "crude" cast finish than the others, but was also more corroded, had to do some electrolysis on it. The quality of the materials and castings on Maytags seems to be consistently good over the years. Not great, these are cheap engines. My area is fairly arid, the "farms" are more cattle ranches. Pre-war engines tend to be in fairly good condition if kept in a barn or shed. Maytags hold up about as well as others, but the design is simpler and therefore more reliable. Suggest phone call to Simpson in Ohio, he does answer the telephone, probably able to answer questions much better than I. (419) 369-4665

Thanks again