Tank Cooling

The Lister tank details and capacity figures are on a part of our site, look in the Technical section and follow the menus, or go straight to it:

Peter

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk

hiya, as of tank im not sure

but i can tell you that a PETTER W type Tankcooled 1.5Hp engine uses

hopes this helps, thanks, Martyn

im using rubber hose for all the pipes i make, thanks:)

as when the vibrations take place it wont destory anything,

the bottom of the tank should be mounted in line with the barrel, so bottom of the tanks water can run out into the side of the barrel, for cooling then get heated and flow out the top to the top of tank, i believe this is right please correct me if not,

George,

FWIW, I've found tank cooling to be slightly tricky as ideally, the tank needs to be sized for the engine AND for typical engine loads. As an example, the Lister A (3 HP) was originally sold with a 50 gallon tank which was designed to allow the engine to run all day at maximum power in a warm climate. If you used a 50 gallon tank on the rally field when driving a small pump, the water would probably not get warm enough and the engine would be over-cooled.

My 5 HP Petter M has a 25 gallon tank and will run all day (albeit at a tick-over) at about half load without getting the water temperature higher than about 40 C.

I guess this is not terribly important given the amount we run our engines in a year. I would guess you need about 2 to 3 gallons max. for a 1.5 HP engine (my 2 HP Fairbanks-Morse will boil it's 2 gallon hopper in about 3 hours on a small load - the manual says that it is designed to run with the water boiling).

Mark