couplings 00

What type/design? what brand(s)?

Wolf said the following on 08/02/2007 19:30:

I think that's what Paul is asking.

Off-hand, there's DG Couplings available from Model Signal Engineering, Dingham Couplings available from Trevor Shaw, B&B Couplings available from, er, somewhere and Alex Jackson couplings that you make yourself. Those are the four most popular, but I'm sure someone will pop up with something else.

I like the Dingham couplings, but be aware that these aren't so good if your stock is turned - most people's isn't, or doesn't need to be. B&B are next in line in the preference stakes as they don't have the fiddly assembly that DG needs, but are compatible with DG. Alex Jackson's are only for the hardcore nutters :-) DG and BB both rely on the coupling itself to keep vehicles apart, whilst AJ and Dingham rely on the vehicles buffers, prototypically.

HTH

I should also add that I don't think AJs would be suitable for 00 because they rely on a more accurate stock/track relationship. Standard

00 has too much sideways slop, so the couplings wouldn't align reliably.

Paul,

There's always the Spratt and Winkle coupling which has been around for a lot longer than the DG, Dingham and BB, and available from MSE.

Jim.

In article , Paul Boyd writes

What's wrong with three link?

"Paul" wrote

All of the kit-based, UK manufactured magnetic couplings I've seen (with the exception of the ancient Alex Jackson variety) are in my opinion unsightly. If you're intent on going down that route then you might consider using Kadees, which although typical USA-style knuckle couplers do have the advantage of working pretty well.

The Alex Jackson coupling was based on a piece of twisted wire and was both critical in its adjustment and less unsightly. This is described in useful detail (with drawings) on the Manchester Model Railway Society website at John.

On 09/02/2007 09:27, Jim Guthrie said,

Yes, of course. How did I forget that one?

What's your eyesight like, and do you expect it to stay that way as you get older?

On 09/02/2007 11:29, John Bishop said,

Nothing, but t'other Paul was asking about auto/magnetic couplings. I've not seen those in 3-link yet :-)

Thanks Paul for your help.

I have just been onto the Dingham site. Would you get the buffer lock problem, what magnets do you use. Have ever combined the two systems as shown on the web site, a hook and loop system. Sorry about all the questions. Paul

Without wanting to either hijack or re-direct the entire topic, can any suggest anywhere that supplies any of these auto-couplers ready assembled? I can't be alone in not wanting to have to all the fiddly stuff in assembling them?

Why this is I can't say, as scratch built buildings, wagon/coach kits etc I enjoy with relish, and (I believe/am told) with good results, but couplings, it's just not to be. Of course I accept they still need to be set up once fitted, it's just the bending, shaping & soldering before it even gets fitted that I can't really get on with!

I might otherwise end with Kadees - which are no less prototypical of

1950's Britain than any of the others!

Steve Banfield (with apologies to the OP)

MFK ?

Not automatic, but magnetically controlled. Should be possible to scale them up to larger sizes.

(sorry about the URL, couldn't be bothered to find the translation, pictures explain the concept).

- Nigel

My personal preference is the B&B - particularly for prototype stuff that isn't fitted with knuckle couplers. The main thing I like about them is that you can uncouple "on the fly", jut as if a shunter has unhooked the wagon with a pole while the train is still moving. There's no need for an unprototypical stop/reverse/go to uncouple Kadee or Sprat & Winkle. Admittedly, I do fit Kadees to modern DMU stock.

Cheers, Mick

Paul said the following on 09/02/2007 20:13:

In standard gauge, I only have a test track now - a house moved forced my then layout into hibernation then scrapping (14ft layout 8ft room). The magnet to use is the one Dingham sell. Yes, you will get buffer locking if you have tight reverse curves, or just tight curves following a straight without a transition. Only when pushing, of course.

I've never tried that, although it should work in theory. I do know that DG and B&B are compatible.

Steve Banfield said the following on 09/02/2007 22:30:

Hijacked!!

For my narrow gauge stuff, I use B&B couplings because they are much less of a fiddle to assemble than DG. The loop is etched, for a start, so you're not fiddling about forming that from springy wire then trying to solder droppers onto it.

Quite understandable. I enjoy building a model of a prototype loco or coach or whatever. Assembling couplings (of the type we're talking about) has no correlation to any know prototype and is just a chore, and the finished result will detract from any model it's fitted to. I tend to sit down and build a batch of them in one hit rather than as they're needed.