What's changed?

Lets assume you're talking about OO, 4mm scale, mostly using read to run models (as opposed to kit building and scratchbuilding, finescale (P4/EM, etc) which have also changed a lot).

OO ready to run has transformed; the best models are now very good. They run well, and the detailing is excellent. There are still some old-dog models from every manufacturer, so it pays to ask around about any particular loco or piece of stock you had in mind.

Cost wise, I think its cheaper than it was. Mostly down to the export of production to China. However, its swings and roundabouts, some things are going to be more expensive. If you factor in the improved loco quality, its definitely cheaper.

Zero-one is now obselete, along with the other systems which were available

20 years ago.

There is an international standard called DCC. Conceptually the same thing - chip in each locomotive controlled by a digital master unit. Its slowly gaining popularity in the UK, and probably worth moving into because it does seem to give better control once the chipset in the loco is tuned to the motor and loco's characteristics. Major makers found readily in the UK are Lenz and ZTC, though there are many other makers of kit, both controllers and loco chips. In theory, everything interworks at the track level, though the control systems do not necessarily interwork (ie. if you buy Lenz controllers, don't expect to be able to easily add a ZTC controller and visa-versa (there are at least two different controller bus systems), but the chips from any maker work on any controller). However, it is a fairly expensive thing to start out with; an entry control unit is around £100, and more advanced ones (with scope for expansion, computer interfaces, etc) are around £250. Chips for locos are from £10 to £30, with more features and better control on the more expensive ones.

Very minority still, though possible. Probably best to join the MERG group in the UK. Start with a decent quality DCC system which supports computer interfaces (middle and upper end Lenz for example).

There is, though the commercial stuff is very expensive (several hundred pounds a copy). Probably some DIY stuff if you can setup programs yourself.

Unless you've a very clear idea what you're trying to do, I wouldn't bother with a computer driven layout for starters. Its enough work to get the thing running on its own. However, the computer does come into its own for programming DCC chipsets; there is software around which can keep the settings for each loco in a data table; this makes adjustments much quicker and easier (and its very quick to go back to a previous setting if you decide the changes made the loco behave worse).

- Nigel

Or at least the boring legal newsgroups. ;-)

Alternatively, you could continue to model to the older standards at the older prices or "retro modelling" as we call it. As a general rule the older and newer models don't mix very well so it's best to stick to one or the other. You can find tons of old stuff on eBay and elsewhere.

(kim)

Being pedantic :o)) EM and P4 are not 4mm finescale - finescale refered to the old, and now defunct, BRMSB 00 Gauge standards. EM is - well just EM and P4 could be described as 'exact scale' (almost).

Hornby Zero One was a form of DCC. (Digital Command Control). The now universally accepted standard is NMRA DCC. It's important to specify the NMRA bit as there are other DCC systems out there that are not compatible.

Any system conforming to the NMRA DCC standards are compatible at track level. In simple terms that means that any NMRA DCC decoder will work with any NMRA DCC control system.

Manufacturers to look for are Lenz, EasyDCC and Digitrax. There are others but they tend to be very, very pricey for no advantages, either in quality or performance. Like computers the price is tending to either move downwards or remain static as the performance rises. My preference is for EasyDCC as it does everything that the expensive ones do at a much lower cost. Try

MERG have a system that is available as a set of circuits and kits to build the circuits. Try Google on MERG.

If you are restarting using your old equipment then the best bet is to just carry on with the old standards and control systems. If you are planning on getting into the hobby seriously then definitely go NMRA DCC from the start. Easier wiring, lower cost overall. Better control in every respect.

Nigel Cliffe wrote:

I did think there was a certain irony in the fact that the first place I turned to in order to research this was the Internet :-)

Mark

EM is the 00 scale fine scale standard

00 finescale still is used, which is the same as H0 scale finescale. The only published H0 finescale standard that is compatable with todays RTR H0 and 00 is on my web page.

EM is 18mm gauge

00 Finescale is still 16.5mm but to tighter tolerances

00 Finescale is 4mm/foot H0 is 3.5mm/foot

(kim)

"kim" wrote

Not always, I've seen EM layouts produced to 18mm, 18.2mm and 18.8mm (EEM) gauge.

John.

My point was that "00 Finescale" is not the same as either EM gauge or H0, a concept which many foreigners seem to have difficulty grasping.

(kim)

"kim" wrote

That's not quite what you said.

John.

Mark,

A couple of points:

It's worthwhile getting a valuation of your old stuff, it *might* be valuable.

Ignore this mob splitting hairs about the odd two millimeters. Buy Railway Modeller, go to a couple of shows, have a chat at the information stand (remember the guys on the layouts are there to operate, not chat, although most layouts have a spare person) - then decide what you want to do.

In message , Dick Ganderton writes

Wasn't EEM an experiment by a group of chaps at the Manchester Model Railway Society. AIUI, they abandoned it when P4 came on the scene.

"Jane Sullivan" wrote

I maybe getting confused here but I thought EEM was a response to P4 proving to be particularly unreliable in its infancy?

John.

"John Bishop" wrote

Why?

There are far better options on the market these days.

John.

The first paragraph is very valid.

The rest isn't. You need to find out what you want to get out of your new found interest in railway modelling. You won't find that out by reading Railway Modeller. You need to rewad all the model railway magazines you can lay your hands on. Don't ignore the Continental and American modelling scene. Look at the different scales. Look at narrow gauge modelling.

Seek out your local model railway club. Go to as many exhibitions as you can and don't ignore the specialist ones organised by the likes of the Gauge 0 Guild, the EM Gauge Society and the Scalefour Society.

If you think that the 'odd two millimeters' (sic0 is about splitting hairs then you could be regretting it for the rest of your modelling life. The decision is yours and yours alone, but do, please, take the effort to find out. It could be that pushing Brio wooden trains round a wooden track on the floor is what you find you want to do - after all that's a valid form of modelling - but if you like the idea of building an accurate model railway then the 'odd two millimeters' (sic) becomes very important. After all, the error is 12.5 percent.

Enjoy your rediscovered hobby, whatever you choose to do.

Suggested magazines.

British Railway Modelling, Model Rail, Model Railway Journal, Model Railroader, Continental Modeller, Railway Modeller.

National model railway societies:

EM Gauge Society, Scalefour Society, Gauge 0 Guild, Gauge 1 Assosciation,16mm Narrow Gauge Society, 3mm Society, 2mm Society, S Gauge Society, NMRA British Region. (I've probably got the exct names wrong, but it will give you an idea.)

John Bish> Mark,

"Dick Ganderton" wrote

That clears that up then; thanks Dick.

John.

If you wanted to continue from where you left off 20, 40 or even 60 years ago, which magazine would you choose?

(kim)