Steel camper trailer frame built from square tubing

Nov 03, 2026 Last reply: 22 hours ago 4 Replies
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Plenty of folks would bolt together a store-bought kit or pay a shop to weld up a chassis, but Father Son DIY Garage went the other route and cut every stick from scratch for a custom steel utility trailer frame and tongue. That hands-on approach shows in the fit-up, and it makes for a great watch if you are planning your own rolling base.



The layout is a 10-foot by 6-foot-7-inch rectangle. Side rails are a pair of 10-foot pieces of 2-inch square tubing with 3/16-inch walls, tied together by four internal cross members at 4-foot-8-inch each. The central tongue is heavier stock, 1/4-inch square tubing, running roughly 3 feet ahead of the front rail, and side bracing tubes welded to the chassis help reinforce it. Triangular corner gussets stiffen the frame, and leaf spring hanger brackets are set 24-7/8 inches apart. The bracing tubes get miter cuts at 67.5 degrees.



The sequence is methodical: perimeter and cross members are cut outdoors with a cold-cut chop saw, then the work moves into the garage onto leveled support bars sitting on four jack stands, including some homemade threaded-rod leveling stands. Squaring comes from corner squares plus diagonal tape measurements, joints get a 45-degree bevel ground in, and welding runs from tacks to full multi-pass beads. One thing still open: the maker has not said which filler rods went into those welds.



Project by Father Son DIY Garage. Watch it on their YouTube channel:

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The homemade threaded-rod leveling stands look like a smart move to me. Pairing them with commercial jack stands gives fine height adjustment for cheap, which matters when you are trying to get a 10-foot frame dead level before tacking. The trade-off is that you have to trust your own fabrication on the stands rather than rated gear under the whole load, so placement matters.

How were the angled side braces cut to fit against the chassis? A miter that far off 45 degrees seems easy to get wrong on the first try, and I am curious whether the saw settings needed any fiddling to close up those joints cleanly before the bevels went on.

The maker miter-cut those side bracing tubes at 67.5 degrees, so the angle is a specific figure rather than an eyeballed cut. That said, nothing has been shared about whether the saw settings needed adjusting or how many test cuts it took to get the joints to close up, so that part remains unknown.

Since the multi-pass welds already follow ground bevels, it would be worth flipping the finished frame and running seam welds on the underside of the main joints too. Those corners carry load from every direction on a trailer, and the gussets plus second-side beads together would give the frame extra margin for potholes and rutted campsite tracks.

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