autodark or not?

This week it is clevis units for a ferry dock 38 mm thick ( 1.5 inches) we ran out of wire on our wire cooled machine so did some with a regular gun on .045 metal core. After a fillet 10mm about 800 mm long the nozzle was red hot as was the contact tip. Normally we do this with .052 metal core.over 300 inches per minute. I am not sure at the amperage. I mostly fit thank goodness. Randy

Sidecar school? too cool. Check out some of my stuff, i took the body off of the california to haul the triumph

Yup. Like the MSF class, but for hacks.

I've got a rig I'm working on (if I ever get either the '78 or '81 Wing running). Would like to bend your ear offlist, if possible? The address in my .sig is a good one.

Check your mail

I like my but 90% of what I do is overhead under a car, and the sensors never seam to catch the arc. Then I go hame with a headache so I switched back to my old hood.

I got my first auto darkening helmet a couple years ago and really liked it but, as has been mentioned, out of position work tended to cover the sensors with the result of having to take a break for a couple seconds while my eyes came back. Since then I've gotten a very, very nice four sensor Huntsman auto darkener with a nice big window and all the trimmings. It was very expensive but worth every penny as far I'm concerned. It has a sensor at each corner of the window so there is almost no way for it not to see the arc if you can see it. I haven't had any trouble with durability and I'm pretty abusive to my equipment. I have no qualms about banging the helmet around the shop or getting the window right up in the arc. It just works.