Cheap auto mask/cheap standard mask...

You need an auto dark helmet with adjustable shades. My latest one adjust from a #7 to #13, I believe, It also has a fast/slow switch on it, but I just leave it at fast, never tried the slow setting. I usually set it on #9 as most of the welding I do is TIG, MIG, or a low setting (60 amp) DC ARC. I very seldom weld anything over approximately 1/8-3/16 inch thick anymore. And if I weld something heavy, I just use 6011 rods and even at 60 amps, you can burn through some thick steel if you want to. Even then I just leave it at #9, I haven't had "scratchy eyes" yet.

One thing I have to mention. I have been welding off and on for nearly 40 years and I can't get used to the auto-dark helmet. I still want to lift the helmet to look at the work.

"garryb59" wrote: (clip) tried the old discarded standard helmet, and by magic I could see what I was doing again!! (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Are all the look-through surfaces clean on the auto-dark helmet? It's amazing how dirt can accumulate gradually and create a haze that makes it hard to see.

Yes, it seems to be ok, although there are some minor scrathes on the outside lens. I'm not too worried right now, content to go back to the original for now.

Garry

Yes, I forgot to mention the mask I have is also adjustable from #7 to #13, but no fast/slow siwtich. Maybe I need a better quality one to get the full benefit. Ok for now. Garry

I like to use soap stone or something like that to mark the weld line. The white shows up on most surfaces and gives you a guide.

I use the gold lenses in my masks- they're a little pricey but I don't mind. They're also quite fragile- a little slag behind the cover lense will ruin one quick, with the resultant burned eyes. I've found that if I tape a cover lens on the front of the gold lens they'll last about forever; I use good quality electrical tape and run a strip all the way around the edge of the two lenses. A second cover lens in front and it's ready to go..

John