Converting from pedal to push button on my TIG

I want to do some race car chassis mods where access is very limited and I need to be a bit of a contortionist! My Migatronic 220 came with a foot pedal, and 2 torches which have no buttons on them. What do i need to do to convert to button arc actuation? Do you just buy an "add on" button, a new torch, or what? Do all TIG's have similar front panel sockets, or do i need to buy genuine Migatronic parts? Thanks.

Reply to
Chris
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Chris,

You might be able to just remove the potentiometer in the foot-pedal and mount it in a epoxy chassis and use it like a roll-on with the pot. shaft in line with the torch handle. Only thing you might need to buy is a mount. Less than a few bucks I bet. My Miller ones are a rip-off at $150.00 but it's a great way for the control. I bet all the others are priced about the same. They don't follow a wiring standard but a lot of the guys here have built, converted, and tweaked them out. I'm sure you can get the answers from them. If yours has a sequencer all you need as a shielded cable and a SPMT micro-switch.

Hope this is of some help,

Rob

Fraser Competition Engines Chicago, IL.

Reply to
RDF

First: I am a weekender--not a professional--but can actually weld relatively well in my range. The following is from my experience.

You might want to consider a torch-end amp control. I have the rotary control by CKW. I have had it for about two years and it has held up for me. I found I had to get used to it--it's a little harder to maintain control on the torch action while my finger is controlling the amps. (Each adjustment to the amps and especially pushing to 'off' has the potential to distort the desired torch action.) I used it a lot for the last 2 years, even at the bench when it was not essential, and got quite good at it. (but, it is easier to control the torch when I control amps with the foot pedal.) While I find the torch-end amp control a bit of a challenge, I have to write that it is a HECK of a lot better to use the torch-end amp control than trying to squeeze the foot pedal between my knees in an awkward (away-from-bench) position!

I found the CKW Amptrol expensive but I'd make the purchase again in a New York minute. CKW is a good company--they'll actually talk with you personally. From some limited discussion of the CKW amptrol here and from the techs at CKW, it seems like it is holding up in industrial use. CKW is at:

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Ciao, David Todtman

Reply to
David Todtman

Chris, Have you tried their website? Have you contacted Migatronic? They have a bunch of torches, and will know which model yours will take. I live in Migatronic country (Denmark) and can tell you these guys are serious.

Consider the time difference; we're 6 hours ahead of Eastern time.

I have a slightly older Migatronic TIG myself, and the control is on the torch. Great machine.

Regards, John Ebbinghaus

"Chris" skrev i en meddelelse news:1g99prmrrt77h$.i0lbw5vfzmru$. snipped-for-privacy@40tude.net...

Reply to
Oneshot

My old Dan Mig 140/200 is evidently Danish made. Very nicely done and still welding well after 20 odd years or so. It will run on 110v or

220v. Its a heavy copper wound machine.

They have a US distributor here in California

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Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

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