HCL Acid to remove Zinc technique

I have the acid in plastic gallon jugs .. and have some galvanized metal to weld.

What is the technique to apply, remove, dispose, etc... ??

Thanks

Reply to
Jeff Klein
Loading thread data ...

"Jeff Klein" wrote in news:OTZAb.84758$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.southeast.rr.com:

I thought you used acid to etch zinc plated metal for painting.

Reply to
Greg M

The way I do it is first make sure I have safety glasses on and handle the open HCL containers outside. I have the garden hose ready with spray valve if necessary. Set the pieces up over dirt on 2X4's for minimum handling during cleaning. (Don't do it on concrete. HCL and other acids mark concrete very well.) I use straight Muriatic, the HCL concentration for pool use. I get an old plastic yogurt container and put an ounce or two of acid and a tooth brush and go at it. The zinc comes off quick! After all the pieces are treated I hose them down. I then over dilute any leftover acid and pour onto my favorite weed continuing with water or just pour down the drain while water is on full for a minute or two prior, during and after.

Note: I don't use gloves but try to avoid getting acid on my hands. The acid reacts very little with my skin but quickly finds any cuts I've got. (cleans them good!) Your mileage may vary.

Reply to
Zorro

Why not just weld the galvanized material, using the appropriate precautions of course. It is simpler, faster and safer than the procedure described, imo. We have made thousands of welds on galvanized pipe over the last few months, easily and safely.

JTMcC.

Reply to
JTMcC

You are very right. I actually haven't cleaned galvanized metal in a long long time and that was when I was trying to stick weld EMT. The popping zinc seemed to make holes faster than when it was clean.

Reply to
Zorro

Jim, Which stick electrodes(s) for welding galvanized pipe? Thanks, David Todtman

Reply to
David Todtman

Don't pour acid down the drain. It may react with whatever gunk is in the pipes and produce SO2, which is toxic. Pouring it on weeds is safer and a lot less poluting than one may think. If you have concerns, you may neutralise the acid with chalk.

Having some baking soda solution handy is a good idea. It will neutralise the acid on your hands or (worse) eyes. Wearing safety googles is also a good idea.

Reply to
jerry_tig2003

Regular old 5P (a lincoln version of 6010) suites us the best, not 5P+. 70+ is pretty good too, but quite a bit more expensive than 5P.

JTMcC.

Reply to
JTMcC

I second this. Dumping acid down the drain is illegal in many places. The safest way to dispose of acid, is to first neutralize it and THEN dump it down the drain.

Also very good advice--always wear safety glasses. I've worked around labs most of my life and know more than one person who has been blinded by a chemical splash because they didn't have eye protection on. If acid goes where you don't want it, baking soda is cheap and effective.

Another thing to remember is DO NOT STORE HCl AROUND METAL!

HCl is volatile and even a seemingly well-sealed container can let enough HCl gas out to CORRODE anything around. Trust me--I learned this the hard way. Best to store HCl (& other corrosives) in a non-metal corrosives cabinet that is vented to the outside (or at least not in your shop.)

Cheers all--Jeff Dantzler

Reply to
Jeff Dantzler

Reply to
David Todtman

You could probably use whatever rod you like for that project. We made several hundred welds several years ago on small galvanized pipe and used

7018. You have to travel slower than normal and there is quite a tendency to pinhole, but it works.

JTMcC.

Reply to
JTMcC

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.