Miller welder lead connection taper question

I did a favor for a machine tool dealer this last week, and in return,
he "stuck" me with some stuff he couldnt sell. An older Miller Dialarc
250 AC/DC welder and a wood planer. Planer questions in another
post...
The welder had been hit a glancing blow with a fork lift and was a bit
bent, so it sat on the shelf for several years, missing the leads and
whatnot. So he told me to haul it off, or stick it in the dumpster...
Being the eternal optimist..I dragged it home.
After doing a micky mouse quicky repair of the various ills, just to
test it, I found out the damned thing works like a charm. AC/DC are
smooth and it really welds fine.
So I spent today straightening out the bent sheetmetal, doing proper
repairs to the electrical guts and after some hours, the critter looks
pretty damned good, if I may say so myself. Needs paint..shrug..
The welder uses a small tapered push in connector to connect the leads
to the AC welding lead and DC +/- welding lead outputs. I had to
make a new plastic housing for one of the AC output connectors, but it
was a snap with the lathe.
Does anyone have a similar welder, and can you give me either the
dimensions of the male portion, or the taper of it? I need to make up
a pair of plugs to fit the output connectors. I have the brass to do
it, and of course, the lathe.
I have a spare stinger and ground clamp and the cable, so its good to
go soon as I make up the connectors.
This will make the Lincoln AC-225 and the Century AC/DC welders
surplus as it will become my main workhorse machine and will get a
permanant home under the welding table.
Thanks
Gunner

Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore
Diogenes
Reply to
Gunner
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I don't know the dimensions on the connectors, but I had an old Airco crank style (made by Miller) with the same connectors on them. I couldn't spend any money to get the machine working, so I made some standard lug connectors out of them. Just a nut and bolt, basically.
Hope this helps
Reply to
John L. Weatherly

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