Need help ID-ing steel bar (is is weldable)

I bought two identical 0.5x4x36" steel bars from "the worst seller on eBay", a.k.a. Bargainland-liquidation. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item 0111213735
Here are the pictures of one of the bars:
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Metal-Bar/
These bars are very rectangular, have sharp straight corners and are a little brighter than usual steel. They are strongly magnetic, though possible a little less than regular steel (not easy to tell).
Their color resembles various pieces like 3R EDM electrode bases that I have, etc, that sort of thing. Not dull hot rolled iron.
I need something like these bars to form a part of a bridgeport base on casters, however I am concerned whether they are weldable. I do not think that they are stainless, but could they be of some alloy that does not weld well?
i P.S. I am not planning on having casters under the bridgeport, they will be to the sides of the base and I will make sure that the base is only 1" or so off the ground. The casters are rated for 2,400 lbs each.

You could cut off some pieces and just try welding to them, looking for any funny results. Or, cut off some pieces and try to harden them. If they don't harden by heating them to about non-magnetic plus a couple hundred degrees and quenching in water, then they are mild steel. If they do harden, write back and we can talk about ease of annealing and or tempering. Lots of guys talk highly of spark testing, but I'm not any good at it.
Pete Stanaitis ------------------
Ignoramus27006 wrote:
  Quoted Text Here  

  Quoted Text Here  
This sure looks like O-1 ground stock. I'd bet money on it. Saw off a little piece, torch it red hot, throw it in oil or water and see if a file will scratch it. If it is O-1, don't weld it. If it is O-1, it's worth some bucks. Try sparking it. O-1 has dull red, small flowered sparks. Try a known piece.

  Quoted Text Here  
I looked at these bars again. I saw this web page
http://ajh-knives.com/metals.html
and realized that end markings are significant. Having realised thet, I found out that these bars have end markings that can be describes as "beige", or a mix of yellow and grey color. I am not sure what the above page mentions that would fit, but I thought that perhaps someone may know what the beige end colors mean.
thanks
i
i

Hey Iggy,
Color coding of metal stock does not follow any "standard" like say a resistor or capacitor does. Each supplier will have his own code, and for his own purposes only.
Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
ps...I would also tend to think as others have that the piece you have is hardenable bar. It is not easy to tell exactly whether that would be air or oil or water hardening though.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 11:36:03 -0500, Ignoramus12714
  Quoted Text Here  

Ignoramus12714 wrote:
  Quoted Text Here  
There is no standard, unfortunately.
Unless you find the original seller, ther is really no way to tell what the color code is. It would make life too easy, if they would stamp it on the end, or stencil it down the side of the bar.
Kinda a pet peeve of mine, as I have a pile of stock that has batch numbers and cert numbers stamped into the ends, but I have no idea what the material is, as they did not bother to stamp it at the same time.
Cheers Trevor Jones

  Quoted Text Here  
Yes, very sad, all they could do is etch the code.
i

    [ ... ]
  Quoted Text Here  
    Sure -- they tell you *exactly* what alloy you have -- *if* you know which vendor sold them before they were cut down (not the eBay one, but the serious metal vendor). The problem is that each vendor has his own set of color codes. The color codes have *not* been standarized between manufacturers/vendors.
    I could tell you what those colors mean from my Jorgensen steel book -- but there is no point unless you *know* that they were sold by Jorgensen.
    Sorry,         DoN.

  Quoted Text Here  
That's unfortunate.
  Quoted Text Here  
DoN, if we can pretend for a second that these bars were made by Jorgensen, what would they be then? The reason for my question is that someone mentioned that while there are some differences, many vendors have a lot of codes in common.
i

    It would have been nice if you had left quoted what I did about the actual color(s), to save me from having to follow the thread back and cut-and-paste it to an editor in a spare window before moving upstream again:
  Quoted Text Here  
    I've seen posted code charts from other vendors, and there was a *lot* of difference. I think that difference is more common than similarity.
    So -- now we dig into Jorgensen's book to see whether there is an actual match. What I *might* have to tell you is that it does not appear under that description in their book, but we'll see.
    When two colors are mentioned, there is some of each visible, one over the other, so your "yellow and gray" description would not work there, and I can skip that if I find it.
    And, I'll have to list "close" ones, since I can't see your bar in person.
Jalloy AR-360 heat treated bars        brown 4140 annealed                brown Type 303se, condition B            brown Aluminum, 2011                brown
    There is *no* mention of beige, or anything closer than brown.
    There *is* a Yellow and gray, which is 1144 carbon steel
    Most things in Jorgensen's book are bright primary colors to be harder to mistake. Nothing as light as a beige.
    So -- it is someone else's code, not Jorgensen's.
    Enjoy,         DoN.

On Fri, 01 Jun 2007 20:14:12 -0500, Ignoramus27006
  Quoted Text Here  
I'd agree with what Tom said. Originally packed like that in 36" lengths would strongly suggest that the steel is ground flat stock, O1 gauge plate or equivalent. Bolt it together if you have to use it as a trolley*, but it might be better to put it to one side for when you need to make jigs or fixtures, then get some cheap black iron to weld up.
*Bolting the parts together with overlaps will be good enough for the intended use. If you want the ultimate in rigidity, then use a bit of Loctite on the mating faces as well.
Mark Rand RTFM

snipped-for-privacy@internettie.co.uk says...
  Quoted Text Here  
Judging from the description, it's obviously some form of flat ground stock.
The problem is that FGS is commonly available in 4140, O1, A2, D2, S7, and low carbon steel. The alloy is usually identified on the wrapper.
Ned Simmons

wrote:
  Quoted Text Here  
If that IS O-1, it would be a sin to use it structurally.

  Quoted Text Here  
I wanted to make some milling gizmos out of them, such as chuck backplates, etc, would they work for it? Or is O-1 for cutting tools?
I am making a bridgeport mobile base right now and decided to not use those plates. I was fortunate to find some 1/4x5" x20' steel bar and some angle on Memorial day, so I have enough stuff to work with.
i

wrote:
  Quoted Text Here  
Sure! The properties of un-heat treated O-1 are great for lots of stuff, it's pretty tough and stable. I use it for lots of such things. Did you figure out what it is?

  Quoted Text Here  
I have not yet figured it out, I spend most of my free time (eg free fromplaying with kids, guests etc) on making the mobile base. Which is already at the stage of fully welded up box.

On Jun 2, 2:14 am, Ignoramus27006 <ignoramus27...@NOSPAM. 27006.invalid> wrote:
  Quoted Text Here  
90.4% has got to be the worst feedback score I've ever seen for a seller who has completed a large number of transactions.
Chris

my understanding is that Barganland is a clearing house for retail store returns and shipping damaged items. If you buy from them and know this, it not hard to get a good deal. If you think its all new off the shelf stuff.... well it ain't and you will be disappointed.....
Just my 2 cents,, for what its worth...
bob in phx.
  Quoted Text Here  

  Quoted Text Here  
Yes... There was not much risk in buying those plates... I would never buy consumer electronics etc from them.
i
  Quoted Text Here  

I just spot checked a couple of very small hardware items (switch, indicator). Both cost $ 12 + 2 handling to ship. While I agree it's up to the buyer to perform due diligence, it still seems like a ripoff.
Bob in Phx wrote:
  Quoted Text Here