Needing garage door help!

I received a single 7x9 clopay garage door from someone replacing
their door. It has all the hardware and even the installation
instructions. I have been for a week trying to =93retrofit=94 it to my
12x16 shed.
I have the track installed and can manually move it up or down but
have tried and tried and cant get the torsion spring to work in
helping with raising and lowering the door. I have done it countless
times all that ends up happening is the wire on the pulleys on both
ends end up =93birdnesting=94 and going everywhere. Yesterday it actually
helped bull it up before it finally birdnested.
What can I do? Would having one pulley slightly higher than the other
cause this problem? I have had to do the best job I could with the
limited room I have.
Another thing I noticed is when I manually raise the door, the bottom
roller seems to be in a different place on the track on one side
verses the other. I measured the tracks on both sides though and they
seem to be the same height.
One last thing when I put it all the way up the end of the door just
barely touched a support on my shed roof. Just enough where the door
wants to come down rather than stay in the upright position. Is there
something I can add or do to keep the door up?
Anyway I appreciate any help as this is driving me nuts and my wife
tired of me spending all my time on this!
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Possibly. I've had good luck using the extension style springs, my understanding is that they're less fussy. If you have the room for it, you might want to consider switching the door over to that style. There's a way to calculate/measure the needed spring values, but I don't have it at hand at the moment.
--Glenn Lyford
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What do I need for that? Yes, I have the room. That is just where a spring and a puley are used right?
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Two pulleys, actually. One at the top of the upright section of track so that the cable takes a right turn from vertical to horizontal, and another that the end of the spring hooks onto. The last end of the lift cable then attaches back near the first cable (in essence, the spring has to work twice as hard, but move half as far).
Tension is adjusted so that the spring has no tension when the door is all the way up, but not so loose that the cable falls off the pulleys. Select spring ratings so that they just ballance the weight of the door. This stuff is out on the net, too, for a more detailed explanation and a few helpful cautions and such.
There is a second cable for safety that runs through the middle of the spring, straight, which does not affect its operation, but is intended to catch all the bits and pieces if the spring work hardens and breaks.
If you go to any of the big box home stores they should have all the necessary bits and pieces in their replacement parts section... --Glenn Lyford
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Might be the old wire is just kinky now it is off. Once stretched, it doesn't go back.
With luck, a pro installer will be on line.
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
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Martin H. Eastburn
Start by setting the pulleys so that both cables are equally tight with the door lowered. You might have to clock the pulleys on the shaft so that the clamp bolts aren't trying to settle into previous "dents" on the shaft. Tighten the bolts on one pulley and rotate the shaft until the cable is tight. Then clamp a visegrip on the shaft, oriented so that it's jammed against the wall to prevent the shaft from turning and unwinding the cable. Now tighten the bolts on the other pulley so its cable is tight. Then wind up the spring and tighten the clamp bolts. It tends to take about 7 turns of the clamp anchor IIRC, but you'll have to experiment until you get it right. Don't forget to lock the shaft with the visegrips each time you readjust. And be extra careful, lots of people get hurt installing garage doors. Make sure that the turning bars are a good fit and are fully inserted before you crank on them. I keep a spare bar and a spare wrench in my pocket in case I drop either.
Sounds like the cables aren't equally tight. Make sure that the door isn't binding anywhere. The tracks should be oriented so that as the door rises it comes away from the wall.
Once properly adjusted, the spring should hold the door in any position, and the cables always stay tensioned. Take care that the door operates cleanly and isn't so crooked or whatever that it's trying to come off the tracks. You'll have a real mess on your hands if one cable comes off when the door is partway up. And an even bigger headache if it falls on your car or worse.
I think you'll find that once you've figured out the correct sequence, it should only take about ten minutes.
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