OT: band saw questin

Yes, in my limited experience a horizontal band saw would be the way to go. And you'll probably get some good answers here. But the main reason I am writing is to suggest you post this question to the rec.crafts.metalworking newsgroup. There is a diverse group of very knowledgeable people there.

Lane

what type (#'s) of production are you setting up for??

oops; strike the above post; new blades in a small band saw work great, would imagine @ 36 cuts a week, under ideal conditions yours will last 2 or

3 for a year

First of all, you are in the right place. Many here use bandsaws.

Anything beats a chop saw, particularly for pieces larger than .065" square tubing or small steel. In answer to your questions:

How fast if cuts will depend on the teeth per inch and the down pressure. Blades life will depend on the pressure, the lubrication, and the hardness of the metal. Cheapos are okay unless you just want to spring for an expensive liquid cooled unit. Down pressure can be adjustable, or keep adding bungees. ;-)

Steve

Your other option is a dry-cut say. They run betwen $350 and $450. On steel they are simply unbelievable.

Stainless steel is not so nice to dry cut saws.

Shortly after I got my Porter Cable dry-cut saw I gave my 4x6 bandsaw to a friend. I have never wanted it back.

You never can get too big a bandsaw. In the shop I am in we have a ten inch square capacity but if we have a lot to do on a job we get it precut by a supplier. It just isn't worth the time spent. If you are buying twenty foot lengths already it is something you should ask about. There is one local steel supplier of structural material that does not charge for cuts. They assemble all their customers' cut lists and optimize to the point the extra charge is minimal and it becomes a selling point. Randy

Ok -

I'll byte. Many of us have the small saw that drops on the work and many of us have the next size up as you saw (I do) with coolant.

They all work - they all have their problems. Fewer problems with the bigger saw.

Blades - much to be said and learned.

1. Blades break.
2. The bigger saw has larger wheels and such and I think (can't measure) can hold up to more pressure that the blade tension needs. Both work.

1. bad blades are bad.

1. Good blades are better.
2. Pick a quality blade, keep it taught when using it and cool and keep the teeth clean if you can.
3. Keep the work locked down tight. Tighter. If it loosens the blade will break.

There is a hand full and one more to boot.

You may not need M42 blade tips, likely you need a vari-pitch blade and not carbon based. Remember the free blades are typically carbon steel and dull quicker with work.

Martin

Check out:

I added the more rigid stand and hydraulic feed mech to mine. That plus rollers on each side of the saw helps tremendously.

Good luck