Railroad Track Anvil

I know, I should be ashamed of myself. But what is the proper electrode to
weld mild steel to railroad track? This is for the legs of the "anvil."
Thanks,
Shawn
Reply to
Shawn
Loading thread data ...
If you can get to clean metal, then 7018, If you have heavy rust then 6010 root pass followed by 7018.
Railroad track is often a Manganese steel.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler
I get a little concerned when I see anyone wanting to weld anything to railroad tracks - even if it is allegedly removed from the railroad bed.
Check out
formatting link
and you'll see some terrorist info. You can subscribe to their HQ Intel-Alert weekly newsletter (43 pages last week) for one year for $99 and gain access to past issues either in Word or PDF formats - plus a number of other benefits. It's near the bottom of the page. Some of the info is translated directly from Arabic speeches and writings. Some of those speeches and writings instruct terrorists on what to attack and how. "Soft" targets such as shopping malls, churches, railroads, water supplies and sports events are mentioned in those writings. Most shopping malls have cameras and guards, railroads seldom do! They pass through many remote areas.
Please pardon my input if it is out of place here, but such info *could* be dangerous in the wrong hands. I don't think we should discuss welding ANYTHING to railroad tracks. The HQ Intel-Alert shows, from Arabic web sites, the great depth of detail they go to in just deciding what apartments to rent to conduct their meetings and to serve as their bases of operations. ...And, believe it or not, they use a LOT of our military technical manuals and field manuals relating to improvised weaponry, operating M-60 machine guns, etc.
Again, I contribute little to this group, though I've learned a lot from it, and surely don't have the right to play "policeman" for the group. It was only a suggestion. However, simple tidbits of info such as was related to this could cost a lot of American lives! Think about it.
Al
=========
Shawn wrote:
Reply to
Al Patrick
How incredibly ignorant/arrogant to assume that welding technology and rairoad tracks are some U.S. state secret unknown outside our borders! I suppose the Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart web sites should be shut down for treason next...GET A LIFE!
flame off.....
Bob
Reply to
Bob Robinson
Huh?
And for only $99 more, we can get more information. Such a deal.
You need to get your meds levels checked, friend.
And I mean that in a kind way.
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
Al better get over to rec.crafts.metalworking real quick. Someone asked about freezing locks...
Reply to
Rick
Do you have internet service in your bunker, or is it necessary to venture out into the dangerous and twitchy world to scribble stuff like that?
Tim
Reply to
The Guy
Goodness, I hope that nobody describes how to loosen nuts with a wrench. Most of the railroad tracks I have ever walked down were bolted together and it seems to me that someone wanting to cause trouble on a rail-line might find using a wrench a little easier than welding something to the track. Give us a break. BTW for those that don't know, let me share with you a "State Secret" about nuts and bolts I learned from my Grandpa. "Righty tighty. Lefty loosey".
Marc
Reply to
Marc Jones
You might also want to consider Stoody 110 (wire) or 2110 (stick) for this application. It is specifically designed for it.
Reply to
Phil Thomas
"Shawn" wrote: (clip) This is for the legs of the "anvil." ^^^^^^^^^^ I think you will have a better result if you "nail" the anvil to the top of a wood stump. Better damping, less vibration, quieter, cheap. That's the way I have always seen it done. You can also hang your tools around the outside of the stump, for easy access.
Reply to
Leo Lichtman
Now ya gone and dun it, pardner. You better grab some beans and bacon and head for the hills. Divulging such sensitive secrets will only bring down the ire of the black helicopters, men in black suits, and people with clipboards.
Sheesh. Better get away while you can!
Run, Forrrrrest, Run!
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
Legs? On an anvil? I think you will be very unhappy with the result if you mean to have steel legs welded to the anvil and used to support it at working height. It would be rather springy, ring like crazy and very hard on your floor. If on bare ground, it would be prone to being driven into the ground unless it has huge feet.
I would suggest either spiking it to a piece of tree stump or supporting it on a heavy wood platform on a steel stand. My anvil stand is a steel frame carrying two thicknesses of 1" plywood glued together. The anvil is attached to that platform. I could post a picture if you are interested.
Ted
Reply to
Ted Edwards
What a retard.... Someone please weld his bunker door shut and snip his internet connection while your there.... What a spaz.. Scary thing is some dorks would listen to him!
Reply to
RDF
Leo and Ted,
Thanks for the suggestions but I plan on putting about 160 lbs. (two 80# bags) of concrete in the metal leg base I will make. The legs will be angle iron (leg in) which will form a pyramid shape. I've seen "real" anvils with similar bases (much more concrete though) that were suprisingly easy to scoot around on a concrete floor and were also very solid with respect to hammering on them.
Shawn
Reply to
Shawn
Give me a friggen break!! How about we just live the rest of our lives in fear and watch sesame street all day
Reply to
Doobie
Your anvil base needs to be very stout. I've got mine sitting on a huge slab from an old Ash tree.
You could weld a chain to it, or a coulpe links so that it could be spiked down real permanent.
Reply to
Joe

Site Timeline

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.