Welding an oil pan on a 3-53 diesel

Oh, and regarding filtering, I filtered it through a rag.

i

Well, it's definitely a hell of a lot easier than 7018, ain't it? And now you got ways to fix lots of stuff you've been putting off, and new stuff that comes along. Gas welding has lots of uses.

Steve

"Gunner Asch" wrote

Pshaw, you say................

Mother Earth News had an article on making your own oil filtering device back in the 70' or 80's. It used a 60 watt light bulb inside a one gallon can to heat the oil as it travelled through, so it would flow better and, a then a roll on toilet paper as the actual filter media. Oil was poured into a container at the top of the contraption and the flow to the bulb/heater assy. was controlled by a needle valve.

Pete Stanaitis

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Ignoramus5997 wrote:

I love this place! The pan is on the engine, with a new gasket of course, and the oil is back into the pan -- no new oil was needed.

i

I agree, I have quite a few things that I was putting off, I just need to recall what,,,

i

Just a humble suggestion. Buy a can of standard white brazing flux and a can of speciality flux for brazing cast iron. I suspect they will last you for many years as you need to use very little and a little goes a long ways. It is not expensive but you need to have it before you think you need it.

IMHE the coated brazing rods do not provide the correct amount of flux and it is impossible to get it where it is needed. When brazing rods get old or wet or dropped the flux will fall off but it is easy to just dip a warm rod in a can of flux and also easy to apply flux directly to the joint before heating and as needed when brazing. The cast flux I have is a dark brown coloured powder and really helps when brazing cast iron. IIRC it is also helpful for other similar work like cast welding.

Old brazing rods with poor flux are often a real bargain and are easy to use effectively if you have the proper flux.

Good Luck, YMMV Happy, Healthy and Rich New Year to all.

If you intend to keep or use this 3-53, you should be aware that GM Diesel specifies simple non-detergent, non-multigrade oils rated as 'low ash', in

40 weight for summer and 30 weight for winter. I have used 15-40 HD (high detergent) oils in very cold conditions but they are GM's second choice and only acceptable when block heaters are not available.

Good Luck, YMMV

I generally braze stuff like that.

Perhaps - but getting it oil tight the first time on sheet metal is a LOT easier with brazing.

True, but it would take a whole lot more heat than what is required to repair a small crack in the bottom corner of a 3-53 oil pan to warp it badly enough that the force of the mounting bolts/screws would not pull it back into shape almost effortlessly.

Heat the oil first (like the coffee) and it goes through a whole lot faster too.

You can also find transmission / pressure oil (hydraulic) - think Parker filters - they sell screw on holders.

I bought a set from MSC to filter out the cutting oil on my large Horizontal saw. I pumped the oil through it out to the metal saw blade.

It would be a gravity flow down through it - but the filter works.

My filter lasted for 7 years - filter was still working - but getting heavy - I sprung a leak and the old filter can was dumped. Screwed in my replacement (bought two at the time) and it is running. Bought two replacements next time I went to MSC.

Mart> Mother Earth News had an article on making your own oil filtering device

So, what kind of setup did you use for gravity flow?

i

Belt *AND* suspenders ...

Those specifications are almost certainly long out of date. I'd run Mobil 1 5W-40TD, or perhaps the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, both of which are very popular. Any of the new CJ4 spec oils will be "low ash" as a result of DPF requirements.

I was suggesting it - can be a gas can with hose connected to the filter and 'oil tight'.

On my saw, it is in line with the fluid pump. The filter is for very fine particles - and the oil based coolant flows through nicely. It pumps up from the bottom of the machine and through the filter then up over the pivot arm into the jointed plastic magnet mounted spray unit.

But you could simply have a dip (into the tray tank) line - siphon up into the filter and the filter drain back into the tray tank (in another place.) Have the pump on the clean side - 'suck' through the filter - so the pump gets clean oil not dirty. Saves the pump. Then it pumps the oil back into the tank.

The leak I had was pin holes in the metal can. I suspect it was to be normally changed out on a x month basis.

I don't use my saw but once or twice a month. When I do, I do a good job of it - lots of cuts. Sometimes only a single pipe or rod.

Mart> >

I reused the old oil for now.

i

These were pretty good engines in their day but they are not as fuel efficient as a current engine. They like to run loaded and at high throttle. Extended idling or low load operation in cold weather will make them slobber lube oil and unburned fuel out to the exhaust system.

Good luck, YMMV