Hi Ernie, or anyone else who wants to be helpful
Could you explain the details of this, for us simple folk who are not
used to rigging-up these things? I can cope with it being conceptually
an "idiot's guide" on how to do this :-)
I realised that using a footpedal is not brilliant when you are welding
positionally, leaning inside a structure!
From a past post:
Subject: Re: New Maxstar 200 DX ... Setup?
Date: Sat, Nov 30, 2002 10:46 PM
What does a sequencer do?
Well pretty much everything except make your coffee.
A sequencer is gods gift to repetitive welding jobs.
Any machine with a built in sequencer will have what is called a
This allows the sequence to be controlled by 2 button taps.
The first part of the sequence is initiated by the first button tap.
1. Preflow gas - This will purge air from the line and torch before the
2. Arc initiation via high frequency.
3. Initial Amperage - This is the amperage the machine starts at once
the arc is initiated.
4. Up Slope - this is the amount of time the machine takes to ramp up
from the initial amperage to the working amperage.
5. Working amperage - the amperage needed to weld the material.
5. Pulsed weld amperage.
Then a second button tap when the weld bead is complete.
6. Down Slope - the time it takes to get from the working amperage to
the final amperage.
A longer down slope prevents a pit from forming in the end of the weld
7. Final amperage - what the machine slopes down to before terminating
8. Post flow gas - This shields the tungsten and weld area as both cool.
So all that with just 2 button taps.
To give you an idea of settings, my machine is currently set up for
tack welding together stainless steel picket railings.
1/2 second preflow gas, 2 amps initial amperage, 1 second up slope, 80
amps working amperage, pulser is set to 40% on time, 50% background
amperage and 1.2 pulses per second, 3 seconds of downslope to a final
amperage of 3 amps and 15 seconds or postflow.
I adjust the working amperage a little up or down depending on how the
welds are going.
Older machines that don't have a 2MT-Hold setting require you to push
and hold the button.
Releasing the button starts the second half of the sequence.
The Syncrowave 351 at school doesn't have 2MT-Hold so we just use the
foot pedal to trigger the sequence.
The main challenge of using a sequencer is figuring out what amperage
you really NEED to weld a bead.
Trial and error can get you there.
Here are some guidelines for minimum amperages.
Start with 1 amp for each thousandth of an Inch of thickness (0.001").
So 1/8" steel or aluminum = 0.125" thick = 125 amps.
Simple and easy.
Now 2 complications.
For inside fillet welds, increase amperage by 30%
For outside fillet welds, decrease amperage by 30%
Those numbers are for Steel or Aluminum.
For stainless steel, decrease amperage by 30%.
For copper, increase amperage by 100%.
For bronze, decrease amperage by 50%.
Use of a pulser will skew this amperage estimate.
Usually you have to increase the amperage a bit to compensate.
To hook up a control button for the sequencer you can either just buy a
remote contactor control button from CK Worldwide, or make your own.
I make my own because CK's is just too big to be comfortable.
I use OEM replacement buttons for plasma cutter torches ($20 each).
They are armored in black silicon rubber so you don't get a shock from
any high freq bleed through.
The wires for the switch are run along the TIG torch cables.
You can just wrap electrical tape every foot or so.
I use a heavy fiber sheath to encase the whole lot.
The button is just electrical taped to the torch handle.
I have tried making fancy brackets and electrical tape works better.
The wires hook up to the first 2 pins for your remote connector.
Usually pins A and B.
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