Is there anything that you can do to separate/help/soften or otherwise unglue a previously epoxied join. I epoxied some weights to the tail section of a model( to the covering) that was extremely nose heavy. I have changed engines to a lighter size and now the model is tail heavy. Can someone suggest anything before I start trying to remove the weights and destroy the covering in that area of the model. Thanks in advance.
On Sun, 4 Dec 2005 16:09:04 -0500, "Tom Hunt" wrote in :
A long exposure to a heat gun should help, as long as you're willing to sacrifice some of the nearby covering.
It may loosen up the epoxy.
Or it may loosen up the covering that the epoxy is stuck to.
I don't know of any chemicals that would soften the epoxy.
Hmm. That is to say, I didn't know of any epoxy removers until I did a google search:
Marty
Tom
Epoxy is tough stuff, but just melts under heat. :-)
Get out your heat gun and you might be able to soften up the epoxy without burning up your covering.
Good luck, desmobob
Epoxy paint where the whole surface is exposed to the remover may be one thing, but where the epoxy is used as an adhesive it may take more than peripheral exposure.
If anyone tries it on a glued joint please let the rest of us know. It could be the modeling breakthrough of the century. :-)
Will it work on jeans, shirts, etc??????
Red S.
in
On Sun, 4 Dec 2005 19:58:15 -0500, "Red Scholefield" wrote in :
Good point.
But someone may want to buy one and try one anyway. :o)
Marty
VENTILATE!
Fumes from hot epoxy are not good!
Dremel?
Dave
Just had some experience with this subject.
Used some Klean Strip brand , Strip-x stripper (Purchased at Lowe's) to remove some Money-Kote residue on my Aeromaster. Worked just fine on the residue, and also softened a deposit of epoxy glue to the point where it lifted off easily with a putty knife with no harm to the wood. Just brushed it on and left it work for about 15 minutes. Used some Scotch -Brite to remove the stripper and residue. Don't know if it will release a joint, but it sure softened this deposit of glue.
Tom
Hobby-Poxy 30 minute epoxy was known to have softened sufficiently at 300 degrees F to allow disassembling glued joints, if care was taken.
Monocote's working temperature is somewhere near 300 degrees too. Replacing a piece of covering is a piece of cake, should worse come to worse.
Ed Cregger
I've used a flattened tip on a Weller solder gun to cut plastic in the past, maybe something like that would be good to pry the weights loose? I'd have a glass of water handy, however........ d:->))
Could you not dremel away some of the weight and not have to completely remove it?
On Mon, 5 Dec 2005 08:02:47 -0600, "Michael Lewis" wrote in :
Neither dremel nor hack sawing is much fun when it comes to cutting lead.
I personally would prefer to cut away and replace the underlying wood than to do all that metal work. :o(
Tastes differ, of course! ;o)
Marty
Replacing covering is awfully easy (unless it is something like fiberglass) Is there a reason not to?
I would use a large soldering gun and melt the lead away and then replace the covering in that area.
Red Scholefield wrote
David - who thought a nice thick towel would be ideal protection against table rash for his model
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