I bought a 'vintage' sport/pattern plane and dont know what it is. I have
been in the hobby many years but just can't name this one. It has a .45
engine. 50" wingspan, 13" chord at root, 10" at tip. Wing is foam core,
sheeted and apparently fiberglassed, perfectly finished. Appears
professionally built as does the painted finish. Checkerboard and trim are
all painted. Fixed landing gear. Very thin fin, stab and control surfaces.
Wing has swept LE and straight TE.
Let me know what you think it is!
Pictures at http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/ag.php?fidQ925&midY6
Professionals make things just good enough so they can get paid on time.
_Amateurs_ make things perfect because they want to.
Are you _sure_ it's professionally built?
It is a SIG Kougar.
That is one of the toughest planes I ever beat to death.
Paul, wanna tell them?
I think I built 21 of the beasts and all but 2 or 3 died from an altitude
of less than 6 feet because I used to abuse them around horribly doing touch
and goes. I was able to get under 300 feet any way you measured it and
ALWAYS below the tree line <g>. Turn left and pull up was my 'takeoff'
technique <G>. Once in a while I would wind up inverted at 5 feet or so and
still pulling, but that was only on exciting go arounds. After the 2nd
bird, I stopped sanding the wing tips and just let the runway do its thing
for me out of laziness. I got so good at building them that I could fly
one Saturday morning the week after killing its predecessor Saturday
morning. You can improve its low speed high wing loaded turns and Dutch
roll by extending the rudder to the end of the elevator. As a pattern
trainer the tail 'hunt ' is its only weakness.
If the whole bird has been glassed I would be astounded if it weighs in much
less than 6 3/4 pounds, but expect it to be about 7 1/2 with the paint.
Check to see if the rudder is straight, because if not I really KNOW that
bird! All but my first two were powered by Saito 50's and my typical all up
weight was about 5 1/2 or 5 5/8 pounds with 1 inch extensions added to the
gear legs for prop clearance (12x6) and NO glass except for the center
I think you are right about being a Kougar, I actually have 2 of the kits
myself. It is just SO well built and painted I did not think an ordinary
human could do it. Wing looks like it came out of a mold, hinges gaps are
zero, and the checkerboard is painted on!
It's ready to fly except having trouble getting the engine to run reliably.
Its an Enya, and the carb seems a little strange. If I cant get it to run
reliably, I'll put in an OS 50 FSR or 46AX
It is a Sig Kougar.
Now why would someone go to so much trouble in making such a beautiful model
and then put an inferior engine in it to power it? They wouldn't. Find out
what is wrong and fix it. OS makes good engines, but Enya makes engines that
are a cut above OS engines.
It would help if you would provide the engine model to us so we can evaluate
it and make the proper recommendations. All Enya engines run great when ran
on the proper fuel and broken-in properly. Some require some special
treatment. We are trying to find out if this is one that requires lots of
castor oil or low nitro in the mix.
Ed's right, Enya's are good engines. I've got a 30+ year old Enya .40 that
I still fly regularly and it's never missed a beat. Tell us what your's is
The air bleed carb throws some people off but it's easy to deal with. At
full throttle adjust the needle valve to peak RPMs then back it off a hair.
See that it runs solidly at full throttle or tweak it a little more. When
you're happy with the high end, throttle back to an idle and listen to the
engine. Especially listen when you transition back to full throttle.
If it just dies flat when at idle it's probably too lean. If it bobbles
it's rich. The same is true when you push the throttle back up. If it just
cuts off quickly it's lean, if it bobbles and transitions poorly it's rich.
All you need to do is adjust the air bleed screw. But you may need to
adjust it a bunch, not just in 1/8 or 1/4 turns. Give it a full turn or
two, run the engine again and see if it's better or worse. If it's better
but not great, give it another turn. If it's worse, turn it back and go the
other way. Keep a mental note of how many turns you've got on it from it's
original position so you can get back if you're not doing any good.
It's easy to do, you don't even need to know if your engine is rich or lean
at an idle. Just try turning the air bleed one way and listen to see if
it's better or worse. If there's not much change turn it some more. If
it's worse, go the other way. Trial and error will find the direction you
need and then you can zero in on the best setting.
>> It is a SIG Kougar.
>> That is one of the toughest planes I ever beat to death.
-- snip --
>> Enjoy it
>> Jim Branaum
>> AMA 1428
> I think you are right about being a Kougar, I actually have 2 of
> the kits myself. It is just SO well built and painted I did not think
> an ordinary human could do it. Wing looks like it came out of a mold,
> hinges gaps are zero, and the checkerboard is painted on!
> It's ready to fly except having trouble getting the engine to run
> reliably. Its an Enya, and the carb seems a little strange. If I
> can't get it to run reliably, I'll put in an OS 50 FSR or 46AX
Has it been sitting for any period of time? Could the engine be worn
out? Did the installation ever work? Why'd the guy sell the plane?
If the engine has been sitting around for a few years, and especially if
the owner had used castor oil, everything could be fine except for
varnish, and you could fix it all up by cleaning the engine and
If the engine was broken or worn going in, it may cost less and get you
a better setup in the end to repair/renew what you have rather than
If the problem is in the fuel system, or some other problem on the
airplane side of the mount, you could put the World's Most Reliable
Engine in there and it won't run any better than what you have now.
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