Need help recovering the oily and sticky airplane from hell

Sep 11, 2007 3 Replies

I have an airplane that flies very well, but is horribly ugly. I decided to recover the fuse and tail feathers (the wing has already been recovered.) I am leaving the elevator and rudder attached since it does fly well and I don't want to take a chance of changing its flight characteristics. It has become a PITA for me to recover. I have removed the covering from the fuse, control surfaces (rudder and elevator) and the tail feathers. The covering was a sticky paper as opposed to an iron-on covering so there are several sections that are sticky where the glue stayed on the airplane when I removed the covering. Also some of the surfaces are oily so I have to clean that off as well.



How do I clean the sticky residue off of the airplane? When I use acetone to clean the sticky area, it gets slick, but then dries and gets sticky again. I was thinking about Goo-Be-Gone but didn't want to hurt the balsa. I plan to use K2R to clean the fuse, sand, k2r (again) sand, then paint Balsarite to finish the preparation. Can I clean between the control surfaces then use Balsarite to provide a good surface to adhere Ultracote to the existing covering in the hinge line?



Thanks



Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

To get the sticky off use the acetone (or denatured alcohol ). Once the area has become "slick", use a single edge razor blade and scrape the residue off. You will probably need to do this 3 or 4 times to get it all off.

This can be real tedious. You need to find the lowest volitility solvent that will dissolve the glue and not dissolve the adhesive holding the frame together. Try a paint thinner first. Then ethyl alcohol. Then methyl ethyl ketone. The first one that will make the thing slick fast is the one to use. Acetone and lacquer thinners will work but are so volitile they evaporate too fast to be the best choices.

Cover the area with the glue on it with a layer or two of paper towel. Soak the paper towel with the solvent. If paint thinner works you should be ok out in the open. With the other two you will probably have to throw a plastic cover over the soaked area to slow evaporation. Let it stand for ten minutes, take off the paper towel and rub the area well with toweling wet with the solvent. Cover again with paper towel and wet it again with solvent and let stand ten minutes. etc. Keep doing the above until it is no longer slick. You need to give the solvent time to penetrate the whole stickum layer and dissolve it. Once dissolved it will come off easily. At least the part that does not soak into the wood. Repeated treatments will draw most of the stuff in the wood back out. Under the best of circumstances the job will be a PITA.

You need to do this outdoors or wear a chemical vapor respirator rated for solvent protection if you are using MEK or a paint thinner which has toluene in it. You can get the appropriate respirator from any decent hardware or automotive store. Also keep it away from ignition sources or the fire could be bad.

It may also help to rub in a mix of solvent and talc after the first paper towel treatment. The talc will help the next solvent treatment penetrate the stickum better.

I use a lot of MEK to clean up botched covering jobs.

That on cotton wast or toilet paper - to soak up the mess before it redries.

Oil? use a combination of a solvent and a detergent. I use washing up liquid and white spirit. That gets the grease into the detergent, and water will wash the result off.

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