New Engine run-in

ABC/ABN engines need to get up to operating temperature to properly break in. Run 3-4 tanks through it, in an only SLIGHTLY rich 2-stroke at full throttle. Then lean it out and fly it. Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!"

Having been a GMS dealer for many years, I have found that they work best if you use a prop slightly smaller than what you normally use. This engine rund real well on a 10X6 or 11X6 APC. I would break it in with a 10X6 and

5% nitro fuel. Start it up and richen it until it starts to blubber and then lean it so that the blubbering goes away completely. It should still be rather rich at this point. Don't peak it for a couple of tanks. You can safely fly with the engine set like this to complete the breakin. After about 20-24 oz of fuel are through it. peak it for a short time and then back it off about 500 RPMs. Run a couple more tanks at this setting. It is now pretty much broken in.

There is no real reason to go much higher with the nitro. I have tested them extensively and you only get about 500 RPMs more by going to 10-15% nitro. Use a fuel with 15% good synthetic and 3-4% castor. Powermaster and Red Max will do nicely.

DISCLAIMER: I have never run a GMS with the remote needle carb. I HOPE it isn't the same one that Tower is using on their engine!

Paul,speaking of remote needle valves , I sent my son in Houston a Quickie 500 with one of my engines on it. He got his knuckles skinned in the prop a couple times. He told me last week he is now using a "remote" needle valve. He wrapped a bread bag tie wrap around the fuel line and just twists it to where he needs it. Say's it works good. LOL Probably better than the Tower one.

Ken Day

I really can't understand why the manufacturers cant do a few seconds worth of extra machining to angle the needle back about 45 degrees! I am sure most of us would be willing to pay a couple bucks more for good carburation and safety.

carburation

I'll second that . Why hasnt TT or OS done this with their design ? They should.

JJ

My TT pro 46's needle valve IS angled back --keeps my fingers a safe distance from the prop.

TT's are angled back

Alan Harriman

Moki engines have the needle valve assembly angled back. The inlet nipple is at right angles to the assembly, which makes it a little difficult to get the fuel tubing on or off, the only downside.

I guess I know how I will be building engines!

Michael (I just bought a lathe, and I'm listening)

That's how Fox and Ogawa got started. Why not?

Ed Cregger

Yea, back when there weren't any alternatives! Unless you are going to build something very special, there is no real market out therre. OS, TT and the rest already make highly reliable, well build inexpensive engines.

Yes, but wouldn't you rather have good carburetion and safety? Let me put this to you in another way. Right now I am building my first radio controlled airplane. It is a 1/2A class plane, and in order for me to get into the air, I apparently will have two engine choices. I can either buy American, and make do with no throttle, or else I can buy Russian, and have a genuine .049 RC engine, which the Americans apparently don't even bother to manufacture! I mean, what kind of choice is this for a Vietnam veteran to have to make? Also, I'm not out to make it rich, but my lathe was made in communist China. I live within driving distance from the Sherline factory, but the Chinese lathe is a far better lathe. Eventually I will outgrow my lathe, and I plan on building the next one myself. Actually, I plan on copying the Ruskies and the Chi Coms. How about that for a switch? Isn't that rich?

Michael

How long before the same argument is being heard about the models we fly ? 'You're going to BUILD your own plane? When there are so many ARFs out there to save you the time and effort'. What about satisfaction. If I had the facilities and abilities, I'd be pleased as punch to build an engine that ran, and far more proud of it that anything I can buy from a shop. Hobbies used to be about satisfaction, not efficiency.

Where do you think Norvel are made? And, don't forget AP and Magnum both have .07 RC engines available.

Dave,

He is talking about making engines as a commercial venture.

Exactly. The Norvel is made in Russia, and the AP and Magnum are both made in China. By the way, I will be making engines for my own personal satisfaction, and I will be selling them in America for our own national satisfaction. Those who want to fly 1/2A Russian or Chinese RC engines at that time will certainly still be able to do so, because, unlike the "experts" at Harley Davidson, I will not be lobbying Congress to ban them from our American shores. However, once I have entered into the act, the American consumer at that level will will have something which he does not have now - he will have a choice to buy American. And if there is one American then who chooses to fly American at that level, I assure you that I will be more than happy to sell him an engine. I have been a self employed business man for the past twenty years, and I am still not rich. I never needed to be. But I am still in business. And I will be until the day that I die, competing.

Cheers!

Michael

Well, all I can say is good luck to you and I hope you do it! Please keep us posted on your progress.

Thank you, Sir, and I will!

Michael

in the Texas hill country, west of Austin

Paul , I sure agree with that. I stay away from that prop as much as possible. I also run Nitro boats and we use remote needles right in the fuel line and let them hang in mid air or sometimes tie-wrap to something. They work real well this way.

Ken Day