Perma-Grits - Mollycoddle or abuse ?

Apr 07, 2007 6 Replies

Hi,



The question is as per title : I've just bought my first ever Perma- Grit sanding block (Type 140 coarse + smooth) and I just wondered if anyone here has any tips on their use ? I read once that new files should be saved to be used only on aluminium and brass until they are a bit worn then to use them on steel. Are there any similar strictures on using Perma-Grits on hardwoods before/after balsa ? I have some leading edges to sort out of which half are balsa and t'other half maple, will balsa clog the new grit surface ?



Any other tips ?



Thanks,



Mike



I don't know but I am intrested in a maple leading edge. Seems like my Gremlin had a pine one. What are you working on? mk

"MJKolodziej" < wrote >>

Seems awfully heavy, and for what?

If you need that bit of extra hardness, your plane will be in bad shape from the impact, anyway.

IMHO, pine is plenty strong, and hard. Basswood is another good choice, and is also pretty light, and a joy to work with.

Balsa is fine, but beware of sanding half set epoxy and dripping CA on it.

A wirebrush clears out epoxy OK, and acetone will take off the CA,., Carbon fibre is best avoided if you don;t want soot all over the balsa net time, too.

I think this is my 'most used' tool.

I got one last year and it is beginning to look a bit sad..I'll get a new one in due course.

Good points.

Sounds like another useful point to note. I was thinking about using CF in the layup but have gone off the idea. The wing is laminated with 1/32 birch ply anyway and I think CF will be so stiff that it basically nullifies all the advantages of the ply and will just make the wing brittle instead of resilient. I'm going for 2 layers of

100gsm glass which should at least avoid the problem of getting the next plane sooty.

Have you used it a lot in the year ? I was expecting it to maybe last longer than that but in truth I'm so tee'd off with wrapping scraps of emery around wooden blocks that =A313 a year doesn't sound so bad...

Thanks again,

Mike

Its a lot less than I was spending on abrasives, and yes, I have used it a lot..several models, also much DIY. Oak and beech roughing..and fine sanding as well. Also removing plaster excess. MDF etc etc..

Its one of those tools that seems to pay for itself in about a week..and then soldiers on for years.

I will get some more..the curved ones look good.

It will hit steel, but mine is scarred from heavy piano wire smoothing..I will use a dremel diamond cut of in future. Aluminium clogs it but that brushes out mostly.

Good on CF and brass tho,.

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