Recommendation on a kit

Why a kit? Lots of quality ARF models are out there and you can get one flying for far less money than building a kit. If you arent's concerned about "true" scale, Thunder Tiger has the Lazy Mustang. I have one. Wonderful plane. I have a .32 OS F on it and it will do any trick in the book in about a 100 foot box. It will also fly slower than most park flyers on the low end. Huge control surfaces for hotdogging but really really tame on low throws. I suggest one!

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Some people like being tied up nude and beat with whips too....

Robbie and Laura Reynolds wrote:

Hobby Hangar's "PTS" Mustang is probably the best one to satisfy you. The initials stand for Progressive Trainer System and it is a ARF that has everything for you to progress from a trainer to a flyer you will be able to work up to with experience. From what I get from the advertisements, you start out with a bunch of gadgets that slow the Mustang down so that it acts as a trainer. Then discarding those parts one at a time brings the speed and maneuverability up till you're right there with the hot pilots. (hopefully) Price is high with the radio and engine, but is very low with just the aircraft. Check out hangarhobby.com Good Luck, Harry

Had to tell you, building TF's Mustang will teach you one hellofalot. You will learn plenty if you follow the instructions to the letter, but you will still end up with a lot of questions. But you can always come back here for more info. You had better be good at flying before handling this gem, and don't forget to build on the flap option... these warbirds don't slow down for landing too well. But I can also tell you that when you build and fly your own creation, the experience is something you will never forget Good Luck, Harry

p.s. This would be a winter project.... or two.

Kev:

I've decided that I'm ready for something other than a trainer, too. But I've only flown ARF trainers. Now that winter is here, I guess I'm not going to be flying much, and I have a couple of ARFs that are in various stages of completion. They are not second planes, however. I just happened to get a good deal on a Graupner Extra 300S .60 that I can't wait to build, but I better wait to fly. I figure that I may be ready for that plane in late summer next year. The other one is an OK Models Mystic 30 that is one of the first of the ARFs from back in the late 80s or early 90s. Since the building instructions are not to good, that one is still only 75% built. Every once in a while I get an idea and resume building for a few hours. I still have several hours of brilliant ideas to go on that one. I've been looking for someone who has built one of those things to offer some advice.

The plane I really planned to get for my second plane was a Sig Four Star, and I've been seriously considering buying a kit because (a) its cheaper (initially) and (b) I haven't built a kit since I was a kid 50 years ago. Time to give it another shot and learn the new techniques and materials.

Then someone told me about a guy named Bruce Tharpe who was the guy who designed the first Sig Four star 40. Seems that he left Sig to start his own company, and his first offering was the Venture 60, which was an improvement and enlargement of his Four Star design. Unfortunately, the kit is $150 (its only available in a kit). To cut to the chase, I found one for sale on Ebay about a week ago and got it for $105 and change. So it looks like I'll be build that plane over the winter. I haven't gotten it yet, but this ought to be interesting.

But I'm rambling. What I really intended to say was that most of those I talked to about a second plane recommended the Four Star. I thought I'd pass along that bit of second hand advice. Give it a look and see if it interests you.

I suppose that's a matter of opinion, but the guy did ask about planes to build.

AV8R wrote:

Bet you haven't tried either..

Now THAT was funny!

Why a plane? Lots of quality TRUCK models are out there....

Never built one but the most often recommended kit for a second plane is the Sig 4 Star forty. I believe my second kit was a Tower Kaos, no longer available in kit form other than on Ebay. A quick building kit is the Tower Uproar. I had hours of flight time on mine till a couple of weeks ago when i had an rx batt failure. Into the ground at mach 2. I have yet to build any warbirds.

And building at the same time makes the build especially challenging...............

Thanks for the advice. I definitely want to build a kit, as opposed to putting together an ARF. I checked out the Ventura 60 on BTE's website

-- it looks cool. I really like his emphasis on detail and quality. If I don't build TF's Mustang, I think I'll go with the Ventura. It's been several years since I built the trainers. I've just recently gotten an interest in getting back into the hobbie. To me, half of the fun is building the airplane. I was suprised when I went to the local hobbie shop and discovered that there were almost no kits -- maybe 2 in the store. All they had were ARF's! They guy at the counter told me that a lot of companies don't even sell kits anymore.

H Davis wrote:

Kev...

You'll not find a finer fitting kit on the market today than one mfg'd by Bruce Tharpe. In addition, The V-60 is the finest flying sport model I've ever owned.

Here's mine...

Cheers,

Bill

The best-flying Mustang kit I ever saw was kitted by Dynaflite. It was a fun-scale model made in 40 & 60 sizes. You might find one if you look around enough. One thing, though; the instructions for those kits aren't anything nearl as detailed as you find in modern kits.

CR

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

A great first Mustang kit is the Great Planes P-51D. It flies like a sport plane -- an excellent sport plane. If I were you, I'd pick up an inexpensive ARF low-wing trainer like the $79 World Models Super Sports 40. You can be flying this with the gear you'll install in your Mustang when it's complete. This ARF costs less than a Mustang KIT does, and will give you the low-wing experience you need to step up to the next level of R/C flying.

I have both the models I mentioned and they are both very good. (When I bought my World Models Super Sports 40 about six years ago, they were $99... now they're cheaper!)

Good flying, desmobob

Desmobob sez...

Desmobob ain't kiddin' here. The reason the GP P-51D flies so well is it's essentially an Ultrasport 40, with the same airfoil, and it's moments are very close. This kit bashes well and STILL files great.

We took ours and planked the wing w/ balsa, added scale ailerons and scale balanced elevator & rudder, along with Robart air main retracts.. We even moved the tailwheel to the scale position. The model was then fiberglassed and painted painted to replicate Bob Hoover's "Ole Yeller"..... It got a bit heavier, so we squeezed in a ST .61 with a Pitts muffler.. It landed a bit hot, but was a solid performer. Needless it had vertical performance out the wazoo...

And it was an eyecatcher.........

This is the model that made me decide to get into graphics design. See it here....

Bill

Actually Hanger 9 makes the PTS Mustang.

Don

Bill:

Now we're talking! Since you own a Venture 60 (with cool Grafix, I might add), maybe you can pass on some build tips. This would be my first kit in about 48 years, so instead of trying out the new building materials and techniques on the Venture 60, I am going to try them out on a lesser plane first ...... a PT40 kit, which I will build and donate as a club trainer. Then I'll take on the Venture. And I just happen to have a brand new OS .91 Surpass that I picked up about 7 months ago at a yard sale. Never taken out of its box. I was going to be conservative and go with a 2 stroke .61, but now that I see you have the Surpass in yours, I will take that as a recommendation and go that way if you verify that it is a good engine for that plane.

Bill, what covering did you use on your Venture? This is going to be my first time using a plastic covering on a plane (I will practice on the PT40), so I'd be interested in your comments as well as anyone else's. Any other tips, tricks, suggestions you would like to pass along would be wildly appreciated. I noticed that some who have built the plane have cropped the wing slightly, but I don't (at this time) plan to do that. Unless you have some ideas that you found helpful, I'll simply build it per the instructions from Bruce Tharpe.

Harlan

instructions

Harlan...

My Venture was covered in UltraCote White... I feel UltraCote is easier to work with... I also modified the nose by whacking off the "sideplates" aroune the engine and building up the nose by fairing the fuselage into a plywood nose ring spaced 1/32" behind the Tru-Turn spinner using balsa blocks.

This is easy to accomplish... Mount the engine as you wish, then make the nose ring from 1/8" aircraft ply. Drill it to fit the prop shaft snugly and make the OD a bit larger than your chosen spinner. The ONLY spiller I'll use is a Tru-Turn. The rest are junk, IMO... Mount the ring to the engine and spinner, using scraps of 1/32" balsa to space the nose ring away from the spinner. Tack glue the balsa blocks in place, but not to the nose ring just yet. Remove the engine, nose ring and spinner assy and open the hole in the nose ring enough to let you place the engine in the mount with the ring in place.. Reinstall the engine. Install the spinner backplate with the nose ring behind it. Wrap the spinner backplate with a layer of masking tape, then glue the nosering in place, lining it up with the OD of the spinner backplate. Use a sanding block to shape the nosering to the OD of the backplate. Now remove the engine and spinner, and get the rough sandpaper. Sand the nose to a pleasing shape. Fine sand it and dress up the opening for the engine... It a little work, but looks alot better than the "sideplates" the fuse once had...

Bruce Tharpe is a friend of mine, a fine gentleman, and I think he's the best kit manufacturer in the hobby today... But I do not care for wings that use a turbulated spar type of construction. I feel they flex too easily. This leads to the only major modification I made to my model. I maintained the airfoil, but I planked the leading edge of the wing, top & bottom, back to the main spar with 3/32" balsa. to do this I made a formica rib duplicate and sliced 3/32" off the top & bottom of all but the center planked ribs. I built the wing on the board and added the planking and capstripped the rib bays, with 3/32" X 5/16" strips... Waaay stronger, and looks better at a VERY low weight penalty....

As this will only be your second plane in many years, I would recommend you build your wing per the plan, unless you feel you have the building experience to make the mods...

Oh... Do use DUAL aileron servos... Eaiser to install and more responsive...

Now for the PT-40... It's been a long time, but as I recall the wing option without ailerons called for 8" total dihedral.... FORGET that wing!! Build it with ailerons, and limit the dihedral to 1 1/2" MAX, instead of the 5" shown in the manual... I recommend 1" total... The ship will be a lot more responsive, and in my opinion, easier to fly... And when you decide to play with aerobatics, you'll be happier, because with 5" of dihedral the PT-40 is nigh impossible to keep inverted, even with ailerons!!