Voltage to a 8.4 V NiMH Pack

Dec 10, 2006 5 Replies

I have a follow on question to my other "Chinese Guanli Glider" thread.


Would a simple 9.0 volt DC wall transformer work as a way to charge a 7 x AA 8.4 volt battery pack. I was at a hobby shop (D&J) yesterday and one of their clerks suggested that you really want about 9.5 volts.



I can imagine that ideally you want to start charging at a voltage just about the voltage of the battery and slowly raise the voltage until you're at around 8.5.



Anyone have an answer or a link to where this is discussed?



On 10 Dec 2006 06:27:51 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net wrote in :

Dunno if your specific question has been answered, but the man I look to for all things battery-related is Red Scholefield:

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Marty

Ni-Cd or Ni-Mh? You need a minimum of 10.15 volts to charge a 7 cell pack. Rule of thumb 1.45 volts/cell minimum. Normally these chargers are designed such that when the current goes up the voltage goes down, Look at them as a constant power device. The product of current X voltage is relatively constant. As an example for an 8 cell transmitter pack to charge at 60 mA you would need 0.7 watts - 60 mA X 11.6 volts. The current will start out higher and taper off as the voltage rises.

- Red S. Red's R/C Battery Clinic

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us out for "revolting" information.

The pack I'm talking about would be Ni-Mh. Is your rule of thumb applicable? I have a 9.0 volt wall that is actually putting out 13.4 volts. Before I knew that I was attempting to charge the pack and both transformer and pack got very hot (>130 F).

| > Normally these chargers are designed such that when the current | > goes up the voltage goes down

... of course, that's true with most real-world power sources, designed that way or not :)

| > Look at them as a constant power device. The product of current X | > voltage is relatively constant.

This is a nice rule of thumb, but it's very much an approximation, valid over a small range of voltages. Your (Red's) page on wal-warts covers it a lot better.

| The pack I'm talking about would be Ni-Mh. Is your rule of thumb | applicable?

Really, NiCd and NiMH cells are charged almost exactly the same. The only real differences are that 1) NiMH cells should not be charged quite as fast in a fast charger, and 2) the peak seen at full charge is smaller on a NiMH cell.

| I have a 9.0 volt wall that is actually putting out 13.4 volts.

... with no load. Also, the wal-wart probably only has a diode (and maybe a resistor in there) so the voltage coming out will not be a steady DC current but instead will be approximately half of a sine wave, and different voltmeters will respond to that in different ways. So it won't be emitting 13.4 volts -- it'll be emitting between 0 and X volts (with just over half the time spent at zero), and exactly how

13.4 volts compares to X depends on your voltmeter and how good it is.

(Red's page on wal-warts does cover that if I recall correctly.)

Good voltmeters will give a RMS value, but even then that's not entirely useful, because a RMS value of less 1.41 volts/cell can still fully charge your pack (because it'll go higher for a short period of each cycle.) I guess with a little math I could calculate just how high, but that's not really needed.

| Before I knew that I was attempting to charge the pack and both | transformer and pack got very hot (>130 F).

Definately not a good sign. However, once the battery is fully charged, all power goes towards heating the pack, so it's temperature rises quickly, and it's generally (past) time to stop charging once you notice it getting hot.

Why don't you just get yourself a proper peak detect charger and be done with it? You'll only ruin packs trying to charge them with a simple wall wart.

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