I was debating whether to use my Y splitter or just go into the computer Futaba TX and set flaperon settings via using both channels instead .. which I would think would also let me do the "flaps" or flaperon full setting option.. where both ailerons can go into an up position at the flick of the switch?
I am assuming if do use the Y cable.. I lose the flaps type ability via the TX?
My tx is an older Futaba T6xa, which does have "flaperon" settings (i was able to get it to work with seperate aileron channels on the RX).
That sounds correct to me. Use a Y cable for left/right aileron servos and you won't have flaperon capability. Put them on separate channels and most computer radios will be able to do flaperon.
That may be a standard feature of the radio, which I'm not familiar with.
An alternative if no flaperon specific capability exists is to mix two channels together...which may have some limitations.
What is considered the normal aileron channels? #'s? I forget..
Someone else said that if I use the Y cable.. I cant set my up/down aileron values to different values.. ie: up 15mm, down 10mm etc.. Is this true too?
Futaba 6xa.. I am going with channel 1 and 6 for the flaperon function via the TX (no y cable for now)..
Flaperon setting is working fine as far as normal aileron motions go.. I cant figure out how to make the switch that says flap, cause them both to go up at same time though (or if its possible with this Tx).
I'm having a problem with all 4 servos.. they groan at their maximum stick position (no physical binding). I've tried lowering ATV, adjusting the servo horn in a notch, adjusting the control surface horn.. the only way to not groan is to go down to say 25% ATV, which isnt realistic or usable... Cant seem to figure this one or the flaps out so far.. still investigating (havent done this in awhile).
This is on my Multiplex Twinstar 2 that I've just nearly completed.
Groaning may not be a sign of something bad happening.
What you really want to know, is how much current at maximum they are drawing, with no load pressing on them.
You need to make a test lead. Take a servo extension, and cut the hot wire, strip each side of the cut, and tin them so they do not unravel. Get a multi meter that can measure milliamps, but make sure it can go up to 2 amps, to protect your meter. Clip the probes on each side of the cut wire, and fire up the radio and receiver, and see how much it indicates your servo is drawing.
I can't remember the exact numbers, but I'm sure someone will jump in with what you should expect to see.
I think that around 3 to 7 milliamps (for a standard 48 oz. servo) is what you should see at extreme or at neutral, with no load applied. If you have too much drain anywhere along the travel, while moving very slowly, you should check things out, much more closely, because too much drain will kill your receiver battery too fast, and could cause a crash.
It is a good idea to put this test lead between your battery and radio, ever so often (at least before a new ship flies, after a crash, and once a season, after that) to see if there is any binding going on. Move the controls from one extreme to the other, one at a time, and observe the changes.
Thanks for the tip.. I'll have to test this.. I do have an Astroflight super whatt meter.. (this is a side question too related).. The super whatt meter didnt come with deans connectors, so I cut the ones on there and put on deans.. I wasnt sure if i did the male/female on the right sides or not.. what the source/load would connect to.. it also has an "extension" style lead connector.. would this lead connector be how I could plug my servo into that somehow? Or is the only way to cut the red wire and use a different device like the multimeter (i dont have one)? So I basically get a cheap extension in this case.. stripping the red wire where the two join (not at the rx area?)
I was hoping to use the astro meter somehow.
In regards to using the astro in general for total watt / amp usage.. Again, not sure if i have the right ends on the right side.. but I plugged the load deans into the lipo battery connector and plugged the source deans into the other end of my deans Y cable coming off both motors..
I cranked up the throttle to full and it only read 12.25 amps (xtra
2829/10 8x4 props).. someone else had 18 amps total.. so i'm not sure how i read anything if my leads are reversed or if they are ok why the value is so low (too good to be true). Wattage was only 136.
I'm not familiar enough with the super whatt meter to advise you. It seems as though it is mainly used for electric motor use.
The multi meters that would work well are less than 20 bucks, and are useful for all kinds of things. You should get one, and make life easy. You will find all kinds of uses for it, after you have one.
About 15 years ago, there were a series of articles in one of the model magazines, about how to homebrew your own milliamp tool that could be used for this. It also had a setting that could be used to put a load on a battery (receiver) to see what the voltage is (checked with a multimeter) while the battery was under load, and you could dial in how much load you wanted to use. In the same line, you could set it for a certain load, and discharge your battery and graph the voltage ever 5 minutes, and get a good feeling of how your batteries were performing.
Anyone remember those articles, and the dates of the magazines? I still have mine, and it is handy!
I have some results.. I hooked up the astro again.. .26A in use without moving any of the servos (total of everything combined though).. I then moved the right aileron to its max position.. it consumed 0.19 ontop of that value.. so 0.19Amps.. does this sound within range on amp usage (safe)..? I think this is about 2 milliamps right?
I will have to get the multimeter though for sure.
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