Plans

Anyone know were to get good plans for someone starting out ?

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

try the link to my website (below)
The anvilfire.com forum tutorials are quite good.
--
BigEgg
Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
  Click to see the full signature.
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bigegg wrote:

I would recommend buying the Wayne Goddard book "$50 Knife Shop". This book tells you how to start up with $50 USD (including knife material).
Anvil fire will recommend the whisper momma as a good forge, which it is after modification. Until that time the forge is adequate.
You will need to reduce the size of the firebox if you want to do forge welding. I got a common fire brick (found at a BBQ store), not a K23 or K26. It also protects the bottom of the forge from the corrosive actions of borax. The bricks are cheap to replace when the borax corrosion makes the bricks ineffective.
Not having a go at Anvil Fire, just passing on some advise.
Regards Charles
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

First, you'll need fire, the bigger the better. You'll also need hammers and tongs with long handles, and something to use for an anvil. Armed with these basics, you can begin the lab portion of the exercise. Take a piece of steel and insert it into the fire with the tongs. When it glows bright cherry red, remove it from the fire with the tongs and place it on the anvil and strike it hard and repeatedly with the hammer. When the color changes toward dark red, place the steel back in the fire with the tongs, repeat secquence one until the steel is formed into the desired shape. Nothing to it. (You've got to have a sense of humor about this stuff; if you don't, you shouldn't do it.) Try www.ABANA.org for loads of helpful tips, connects to equipment, people with skills, supplies, tools, you name it. Blacksmithing doesn't have to be hard or expensive, depends on how good a scrounge you are and how innovative you can be.
Happy Whacking...
Charly
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Also try this :-
<http://www.armourarchive.org/
Regards Charles
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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Plans for what?
Pete Stanaitis -------------------
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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I assumed... everything. Charles
spaco wrote:

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Chilla - DOH, thanks I'd never have figured that one out..... ;-) :-D How are you doing Mate? Good to hear from you.
For some really good projects with lots of photos showing how to do it, try the "I Forge Iron" site blueprint section, there are more than 250 of them now. http://www.iforgeiron.com/Blacksmith_Blueprint_Index
A silly question - Do we have a FAQ section here??? If we do, shouldn't questions like this be answered in there? Don't get me wrong, I'm not having a go at anyone, but I can only stand so much laughing at Chilla and that Bastard, Charly ;-) :-D with their replys. You guys just crack me up, Thanks for that:)
Regards to all, Rusty_iron
Chilla wrote:

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Rusty_iron wrote:

I guess I need to start putting a 'put down coffee cup and swallow before reading' warning label on some of the pithier responses.
Charly
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Good actually (apart from another flux burn... ow).
I start the Journeyman course on Monday... mainly for the contacts really.
I just uploaded some images of the micro furnace I built out of 1/2 a sustagen tin and a few other components.
It's only designed to melt 250g of metal, but it does it really quickly 3 minutes for 90/10 bronze. I made it so I can melt some silver, and not have to roll out the larger furnaces.
I'll check out the site.
Keep well regards Charles
Rusty_iron wrote:

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Thats good to hear Chilla. Sorry to make you choke on the coffee Charly :) I really do like some of the replys you guys write, it just cracks me up. Thanks again for that. Where are you located??
Chilla Journeyman course???? I know your in Sydney, but who is running it, whats the cost, and how long does it take? You also mentioned uploading some pics? can you give us the URL? Regards Rusty_iron
Chilla wrote:

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Hi Troy, The course is run by Ultimo TAFE, as an evening course, there are three semester, although at this point in time I am only interested in the first semesters content. I want to foster some contacts, maybe get a group of people working on a major project, things like that.
They only take 8 students. It costs $280 per semester, but that's a tax write off for me :-)
I uploaded the images to several Yahoo! lists. I'm still working on my web site... I'm too fickle, I should just put it up and be done with it.
Just imagine 1/2 a sustagen tin with a fire brick inside secured with kaowool and zirconium paint, and a small portion of fire brick as a lid, that can melt bronze, brass, silver and gold :-)
I could send you some pics if you want, although the furnace just looks like 1/2 a sustagen tin.
Regards Charles
Rusty_iron wrote:

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Rusty_iron wrote:

(put down coffee cup and swallow befroe reading)
I'm in the middle of Tronado Alley (Oklahoma). I live on the Southside, home of the marquis-lighted wheelie bar. I work in a shop that bears a striking resemblence to the Museum of Sharp Pointy Objects (place pointy objects pointy end up). I make edged weapons of worth for warriors of renown, no wallhangers. The current 'high score' for my blades is a four inch diameter oak tree felled in a single stroke. Granted, the weilder is a Large Lad, but that's not too shabby for a one-hander.
Charly .
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What part of Okieland?
[I may be going up that way soon. <grin>]
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Hi Charly,
You make blades too... excellent, we have something in common.
A lot of the stuff I make is for sports combat, none of these wimpy rapiers, but solid type X Oakeshotts :-)
I personally believe that you have to know how to use something before you can make it. You see a lot of good knives around the net and this is because everyone knows how to use one. However you don't see many quality swords, as the skills required to use them is different and requires training.
Warriors of renown... sounds a bit SCA? Most of my clients have no notion of chivalry, and are extremely experienced fighters.
I've never put a sharp edge on a sword (yet), as the style of swords that are made for sport, it wasn't historically accurate to do so. I make historically accurate replicas. Well as accurate as modern materials will allow.
I will make a sword with a nasty razor sharp edge, but I will have to find a historical blade that allows this, and give the cutting thing a go... sounds like fun :-)
Regards Charles
Charly the Bastard wrote:

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Chilla, in your state wouldn't "> I will make a sword with a nasty razor sharp edge, but I will have to find a historical blade that allows this, and give the cutting thing a

Victoria has some serious legislation to control the ownership of even replica wallhangers, and that NSW controls knives quite closely, well the carrying of them anyway, I thought they controlled ownership of swords too? God this country is getting Shot to Sht with all the government controls and legislation. Excuse my rant :) Regards Rusty_iron
Chilla wrote:

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Nah I live in NSW, but even if I did live in Victoria I'd be in an exempt class, so I could still own then.
To make them in Vic I'd need a markers license.
I regularly check and make sure I comply with any law or legislation :-)
Regards Charles
Rusty_iron wrote:

Victoria has some serious legislation to control the ownership of even replica wallhangers, and that NSW controls knives quite closely, well the carrying of them anyway, I thought they controlled ownership of swords too?

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Chilla wrote:

Does twenty five years of tourney combat and war count as training?

Since AS Single Digit. Most of my clients are ex-military, some highly decorated combat vets. I don't know about you, but the Medal of Honor and the Navy Cross makes one a warrior of renown in my book.

If you're basing 'historically accurate' on surviving artifacts, then it's highly likely that a 1000 year old blade won't have a credible edge left. Not even mine will withstand a millinea of wear and tear without dressing. It's about the included bevel angle as much as the edge radius. I can hone a right angle to 'razor sharp', but it wouldn't blaze through armor outside a hydraulic press. My stock blade is a dimensional rep of a 10C Juttish Longsword in 5160. 30"x 2"x 0.290" blade, one hand grip, fullered all the way to the point, balanced 4" forward of the guard. Weighs about four pounds. Heat treated to Rc 55, full tang. I also have a fixture that makes tapered blades with tapered fullers in the same length. Yeah, I cheat. I use machine tools. But I make cable damascus too, up to 24" billets.

Oh it is. I gave some thought to doing the 'hanging rope' test with 1/2 inch steel cable, in parody of the Spyderco add that was in the knife mags a few years back. Dangle a cylinderhead from the tree and hack away on camera. Nothing sells these babies like the demonstration. When I moved in to my 'hood, it was an 'active gang area'. I trimmed my trees with one of the swords one afternoon, and the gang problem disappeared the next day. Go figure. It's been quiet ever since.
HL Charly the Bastard, the Last Dworf in Ansteorra, Head Metal Forger In Charge, Dwarven Metals
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Charly the Bastard wrote:

However you don't see many

As long as it using metal ;-) Again we match, I've been swinging a sword for sport for 25 years, although I use metal weapons not rattan.

Sure that renown in my book too :-)

I rarely base a replica on the artifact alone, I back it up with, literature, research and interviews with history professors, the practice of European blades having a keen edge came from the crusades. The arabs were cutting through mail like butter, they used extremely sharp weapons, so naturally the crusaders adopted the practice, and it filtered through to the rest of europe.
I should qualify the I only make european replicas (there's enough people making Japanese swords).
Cool :-) I use spring too, although I get mine done to 57 rockwell, anywhere between 55 and 63 is good for a sword.
My generic type X Oakeshott has an overall length of 1 metre, at it's widest 5 cm, bronze fittings which I alloy and cast myself (I get my jollies making a solid into a puddle). I make the grip an uncommon 11 cm long, most people find it difficult to manage the common 8 or 9 cm accurate grip, especially with square facing pommel and cross. I do a through tang also, makes a nice solid grip... makes the swords sing.
The weight of the blade is approximately 2 lb. (or approximately 1 kg), the bronze fittings can weigh about 700 g (depending on the style of the fittings of course).
I cheat sometimes too, nothing beats a wrist-breaker-boshe angle grinder (also good for p*ssing the neighbors off with noise pollution :-) ) for a quick blade. Nothing wrong with using tools, I only do tribal blades for those that can afford it ;-)
Never done a cable blade, I've only done maiden hair and star patterned damascus, using file steel and mild steel. I'll do some cable one day.
Did you see the guy on the net that does a cable damascus, and dips the red hot cable into molten brass, basically making a brass and steel cable damascus... very pretty.

You have all the fun, I'd get a fine and prison if I did that on the streets here, I can own weapons, but am not allowed to act in a threatening manner towards people on the street, that comes under the summary offenses act.
Regards Charles P.S. Am currently working on a damascus sax. A find that my friend recently purchased a lovely little straight iron blade, Anglo Saxon 9th - 10th century. I'm using it as a guide to make a slightly bigger sax :-)
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Rockwell C (55-63..) it is and Brinell hardness 555 through 700+ BHN.
That is rather hard. But blade to blade is rather harsh as well.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member http://lufkinced.com /
Chilla wrote:

-
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