Flat bottomed drilled holes

I am working on a project in which I need to make flat bottomed holes in some rather extreme conditions. The smallest so far is .073 diameter 1.277 deep, that
being 17.5 diameters, and the largest is .1875 1.0 deep, a mere 5 diameters. I have high pressure internal coolant available, so I am going to use that to get the depth, them follow up with a cobalt drill ground to 180 degree tip in order to make the flat bottom while being supported by the rest of the hole. Does anyone have a better suggestion? -plh
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That will work, I do it all the time with .187 drills, but I use OIL. Never did a .073 drill, but it should work as well.
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Good Lord, the flat bottomed part makes that sound real fun. Do you have access to any edm equipment of any kind?
Does it have to be totally flat? Can you sneak any kind of angle in the bottom? Or at least have some kind of hole down the center?
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Yes, totally flat. It is part of an air-flow thing that is very fussy, you see you have this compressible fluid (air) which is somewhat pressurized in this case. Experience has shown the existing design to be effective, and so no one wants to change it. I may be in a position to experiment with some other designs but not until I have this one set up. Once it is set up we will be able to bang 'em out a lot quicker and therefore we will be in a better position to experiment. EDM is out of the question. The thing is already made here and the use follow-on flat bottomed drills such as I have motioned above. It is now going on to a new machine and it would be a good time to start with a different and improved method, if one exists. -plh
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2 piece it? Press or screw in the flat from the other side.

some
deep, that

diameters. I

to get

order
Does
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W. Stiefer wrote:

Yeah, My hudraulic manifold guys do this all the time. There are plugs specifically designed for this application. I think Lee makes them. I know they make metering jets.
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On May 30, 6:34 pm, "John R. Carroll"

John, how's the progress on your you-know-what parts? How did you end up inspecting those things?
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Joe788 wrote:

Done deal, and the first flowed 50 percent better than the design requirement which means they are well made. I expect the second will be the same.
As far as inspection goes, what "Inspection" ? Quality isn't controlled you know, it's created. LOL These were built the way tool makers, actually mold makers, build things Joe, not the way you knuckle dragging production guys do <G> The screw clearance holes were all drilled, interpolated and then reamed for example. There wasn's anything off the nominal more than .001 True position regardless feature size MMC anywhere.
One unintended result of this project is that I had to design and have built a 50 taper ER 32 collet chuck with a built in coolant inducer. Pretty slick, and the guy that did the work will have them on the market shortly at $300.00 for a 6" GL holder. I think that's the price. I paid a little more and had to "excercise" my personality a little just to get them made. Any idea what two pieces of what looks like a cockamamie idea costs to have built?
Good job, good people and good money. IOW, it's all good. Thanks for asking...
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On May 30, 7:05 pm, "John R. Carroll"

So I take it the DMG performed as advertised? .001 True Position is good work on any feature, let alone 5 axis nonsense!
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Joe788 wrote:

Nope, bush league wouldn't cut the mustard. SNK all the way buddy. It took a little massaging to dial the hardware in but Fanuc provides the functionality. What you have to know is that this can be done and who to do it. The motion has been corrected through the control to be better than the SNK factory spec. and there isn't any real reason that anyone couldn't do the same. Best iron I've ever seen, bar none.
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On May 30, 6:21 pm, "John R. Carroll"

No shit? So what happened with the DMG? Did you send it back and tell em to pound sand?
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Joe788 wrote:

Not exactly. There were two additional machines here in California already. Evo's both. Our friend had a change of heart and I went ahead with the project on my own. The machine in Chicago wasn't installed. In the end, it worked out for everyone I guess. I know it did for me. I'll be starting 4X of each for flight hardware in August/September, depending on material availability. That's a total of 8.
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Just out of curiosity because I run DMU 100P and I have the impression you are not a big fun of those, what is it you don't like about them? Jerry

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Jerry wrote:

I do like them. The P series and the V series are completely different animals but DMG builds good stuff. Given the right work I'd be happy to have one. There are a couple of issues that turn me off but that isn't unique to DMG.
This is a matter of the SNK hardware being head and shoulders better for my application, not DMG being bad.
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Sounds like this information may be useful but please tell me -- Lee? As in Lee Spring, or some other? That is unless you are talking about a way to do it in 2 pieces which is not an option in this application. Thank You, -plh
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W. Stiefer says...

Either I missed something or it really just never came up, but what material are you flat bottom drilling? Dixon
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440C, D2 & A-2
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For anything over 0.156" take a look at Ceratizit Ecocut and Ecocut Mini tools. You can just drill flat bottomed holes from solid with them.
<http://www.ceratizit.com/ecocut_ENG_HTML.htm
The only thing is that the feed rate needs to be slower than that of a conventional drill. They don't work worth a damn if you don't follow their speed/feed guidelines. Especially feed rates.
I think Iscar sell something similar too.
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Or simply make it a 2 step process, drill then use a modified carbide reamer or similar...but then again for some reason perhaps I've failed to comprehend the original problem...
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