What else do you need?

Yup, that's in the menu.

As sad as this might be, it is true. One approach would be to get the basics to get started and keep an eye out for that sort of an opportunity.

-Martin

Reply to
m
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Is a tool setter the same thing as the probing system offered on Haas machines?

-Martin

Reply to
m

...

What you say is true and very valid. I have someone who will take on this part of the operation and he is very involved in selection and all we are doing pre-purchase. I am one of those engineers that actually gets his hands dirty. I have a full wood shop at home, weld, design, and make my own stuff. I've owned both manual and simple CNC machines in the past..so I am not a complete newcomer to chewing on metal. So, none of this scares me or strikes me as terribly difficult if one spends a reasonable amount of effort learning. Having said that, I am also humble enough to recognize how much I don't know and that's why I am here asking dumb questions. I feel I've learned quite a bit with just a few posts and appreciate the input I have received. It will surely help make the right decisions.

-Martin

Reply to
m

I sort of take stuff like vices and clamps as a given. I probably have a full set in the garage somewhere from an old Bridgeport CNC I used to own.

-Martin

Reply to
m

As in a CT40 holder?

Speaking of benches. I was thinking that we should make or purchase a steel-top bench on wheels. Yes?

We do a lot of work with "t-slot" or "80/20" extrusions. In fact we have lots of the stuff laying around. Maybe a frame out of 80/20 and a steel top bolted on top?

On the subject of tables. Not that this is a fair analog, but on my table saw I have a set of extension tables that come in very handy when handling full sheets of plywood. One thought I had was that we could build a table for the VMC with an overhang just above the top surface of the mill's table. This would allow you to roll it right into the front of the mill and slide plates onto the table without any need for hoisting or dead lifting. Is this a good idea or am I overthinking this?

-Martin

Reply to
m

Even better.... Gives you a reminder/motivation to get done, and go home!

Reply to
Half-nutz

You must not be married. Sometimes staying at work is a far safer! At least machines have safety interlocks and the all important on/off buttons! :-)

-Martin

Reply to
m

m wrote in news:a7bff130-987b-440e-9b4e- snipped-for-privacy@b40g2000pri.googlegroups.com:

No. You need some way of establishing the length and diameter of the tool. You can use an offline presteer. Or touch the tool to a known qualified surface and use the "measure" function or calculate the offset for length, and measure the tool with hand tools for diameter.

Or you can use a tool setter. Or a laser like the one I linked to.

The advantage of the laser is that you can also use it for tool breakage detection. It also measures the tool at speed and you can measure every tool before you use it. This comes in handy if you are doing tight tolerance work, as it sees the effects of thermal displacement.

It also eliminates crashes due to operator error in setting offsets.

Reply to
D Murphy

F. George McDuffee wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I don't have pricing handy but I can find out. They aren't that much. Plus they pay for themselves in fairly short order.

Reply to
D Murphy

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-- Tom

Reply to
brewertr

I concur. Since software is still looming over the horizon, someone that can program, setup and operate either permanent or while you get up to speed would be a big plus. Rookie mistakes bite, especially if you haven't scared the crap out of yourself enough to be anal about absolutely everything. My first rule of CNC: It is not a matter of IF, it is when and how bad. JL

Reply to
JL

-------- Thats how I understood your comments.

Beyond certain basics, much will depend on the specific types/sizes of products you are making, the product features you are measuring [i.e. slots, depths, angles, diameters, etc.] and the required accuracy. The more explicit you are, the better the suggestions will be. For example, a surface plate [size?] and height guage may be vital, it may be useless, or somewhere in between for your product mix.

Your local community college may offer a metrology class. If so this can shorten the learning curve significently, and you will get some hands-on to see what brands/types of equipment you like, e.g. analog v. digital. some examples

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It can also be helpful to get some basic texts on metrology.
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?isbn=1-56990-391-3and many others.

You local mill supply should have a number of free handouts they can provide, or the measuring equipment manufacturers will frequently send for free on request.

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?NodeNum=29056
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"This two-day course presents the science of measurement for students of dimensional metrology. It is intended for anyone who wishes to learn the basic tools and techniques required for reliable measurement. The course covers a variety of related topics to apply measurement principles with ?best practices? and presents fundamental considerations for the proper selection, application, and care of typical measurement systems. "

Good luck and let the group know what you decide and how you make out.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]

------------------------------------------- He that will not apply new remedies, must expect new evils: for Time is the greatest innovator: and if Time, of course, alter things to the worse, and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better, what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman. Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

Got it. I'll take a look at the links you posted.

Thanks,

-Martin

Reply to
m

Martin,

Sorry, a bit of a pet peeve, I thought you were saying your inspection tools are too good to put out on the floor. Since having been through this a few times in real life I took your comments the other way.

Tom

Reply to
brewertr

That's the one I use it works very well, found on Ebay for 1/2 that price.

Reply to
Why

Tom:

I use the following Zero-Setter, as it's only 1" high and has a smaller footprint than the 2" tall one you listed.

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But for Martin, these indicating setters are probably overkill when just starting out - as a dowel pin will do an adequate job at a greatly reduced expense.

Reply to
BottleBob

As long as you don't "bump" your carbide end mill into it .

Reply to
Why

BottleBob wrote in news:gOOdneJWZt2b7wDUnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com:

Speaking of that, do you still have one of Santa Cruz Mike's setters? Would you sell it?

And since you are (semi)-retired, maybe you could consult with Martin to get his shop set up so that he avoids a number of beginner mis-steps.

Reply to
Alphonso

Alphonso:

You mean his Millabrator? Yes, I've got one - it's like new since I seldom used it and kept it covered in the drawer. Sell it? I don't know, it cost $375. But if you can use it make me an offer.

I went to the shop today. Man, everything is in disarray since they are having a brand new 40X20 Fadal delivered tomorrow and it was like a scene out of the Keystone Kops playing musical machines to fit it in.

Reply to
BottleBob

I sure hope you don't mean that. I can't imagine doing something productive all one's life and just walking away from it.

Wes

Reply to
clutch

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