Questions about 2 to 3 prong installations

Since you have to ask these questions, my only advice is get a licensed electrician to do the work.

I should have been more clear.

While the GFCI did work using it's built-in tester, it failed when using one of those testers that you plug in and push the button to trip it.

The way I see it, I have two choices. I can either run a ground wire from the panel to each plug, or I can use the conduit as the ground. The former would be a severe pain in the butt, and if going that route is significantly better (safer for people as well as electronics) then I'll bite the bullet and have my electrician do it. If the latter is acceptable, I can do it myself easily.

What's your take?

Right now I'm using those adapters which attach to the screw (connected properly). Would using the tester I mentioned earlier on these things be wise?

I run a lot of electronics, such as computers, off these lines, so I need them functioning well.

Pagan

I appreciate your advice, and it may very well come to that. However, I'd like to know anyway, as this has been gnawing at me for some time.

Few things are as frustrating than going through the hassle of meeting a contractor to do a job that takes 10 minutes, leaving you to think "I could have done that!"

Pagan

This is because external testers require a 'grounding conductor' to develop a current difference. The internal test does not require a grounding conductor to work. Nor does the GFCI require a grounding conductor to work properly.

It is permissible by NEC to wire three-prong outlets downstream of a GFCI

significantly

As I said, if the first outlet in the 'string' is GFCI and all downstream outlets are properly fed from the GFCI and labeled correctly, the third prong doesn't have to be connected to anything. There are some circumstances where conduit might be used, but without inspecting the whole installation, I wouldn't rely on it.

daestrom