What cap mfr. to use?


I do, but that's mostly to make it easy to perform full backups. The machine run coolers, though it spews more RF, which keeps atomic clocks in the same room from synching.
By the way, check the CPU cooler occasionally. Mine hadn't been cleaned since I bought the computer over eight years ago, and you cannot believe how clogged with shmutz the heat sink was.
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William Sommerwerck wrote:

Not a problem for me.

I clean them moderately regularly. Plus I don't operate in a very dusty environment.
Gragam
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Nor do I. This wasn't dust -- it was more like gobs of sub-microscopic carbon particles.
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William Sommerwerck wrote:

Never seen that. On the CPU cooler itself you mean ?
Grham
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On the heat-sink. It reminded me of the black stuff that comes off a CRT faceplate. Only a lot more.
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Eeyore wrote:

I've seen that in downtown areas where a lot of Diesel trucks go. I assumed it was particulate from the exhaust.
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James Sweet wrote:

That could be it. Roll on clean diesel technology.
Graham
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William Sommerwerck wrote:

Thankfully I have no atomic clocks to worry about.

Yes, I keep an eye on that kind of thing.
Graham
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Eeyore wrote:

[...]
This box is a dual Xeon, with huge CPU heatsinks that get very filthy. I take the fans off & brush out the heatsinks once or twice a year.
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Eeyore wrote:

The ethernet tokens should also be polished every three weeks.
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But isn't that at "high" temperatures, or some other extreme operating condition?
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William Sommerwerck wrote:

Yes.
Grham
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Mike Tomlinson wrote:

AT RATED TEMP and RATED RIPPLE CURRENT. Rarely found in combination except by bad design, and it does happen sometimes.
You can get far better by de-rating. Rule of thumb is to reduce the temp from rated value by 10C and double the lifetime etc etc.
Graham
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Sylvia Else wrote:

Shit, I'd generally be happy with 2000 hours MTBF.
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    On Sat, 09 May 2009 02:16:42 +1000, Bob Larter

Less than 12 weeks? You have a bright potential future with Samsung, HP etc.
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Speaking as someone who spent the last 10 years of his career as a senior engineer in a department repairing broadcast equipment, we found B C components (formerly Philips, formerly Mullard) to be among the most reliable and some we used to get from Farnell/Newark, with a sort of diamond design on them (I think possibly manufactured by multicomp), as the worst.
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> Today I ordered electrolytic caps. It was frustrating. I had planned to get > the best low-ESR replacements for all the caps in some switching power > supplies. I discovered how limited any one manufacturer's low-ESR catalog is. > Many of what I needed (none of which seem to me to be esoteric values) were > not available. A couple of times I had to leave a particular manufacturer's > catalog altogether to find a value. > > Which brings me to my question. I was trying to get all Panasonic FM-series > (hi-temp, low-ESR) caps. I've heard good things about Panasonic's caps, but > being forced to another brand I has no idea of comparable quality. (This, at > Digi-Key and Mouser.) > > Also, How important is the type of electrolyte? I've read that low- ESR caps > are frequently made with water-based electrolyte whereas non-water- based > formulae cannot give low ESR value. > > The qualities of caps (ie, hi-ripple, hi-temp, low-ESR, etc.) are frequently > discussed on electronics forum, but I haven't seen the different > manufacturers compared. > > How do the quality of caps compare by > > Nichicon > Panasonic > Vishay / Sprague > Mallory > Rubycon > United Chemi-Con > Cornell Dublier > Xicon > > Feel free to add to the list, praise, trash, and/or list in order of your > preference. Extra credit for essays on why you like / hate / prefer a brand > or series of caps. > > Thanks, > -- > DaveC
I buy the replacement parts at a Hollywood dub house. Last year I bought 14.000 'lytics , 10,000 installed by 3 of us. My first choice in Panasonic FM but the selection isn't as wide as the second choice of FC caps. If I run into a physical size problem Nichicon PW series often helps. For surface mount first choice is Panasonic FK and sometimes HC series. If you're doing this a lot like we are, Metcal soldering irons are HIGHLY recommended. The STTC-126 tip (700 F 30 degree bent tip) is really good for clearing stubborn holes - usually ground planes with lousy thermal reliefs. A lifted pad is a very rare event with a good soldering iron.
100uf 25V (most common value for us) cost 20 cents in 1's 10.28 / 100 but are only $57.54 / 1000. I try for 1000s whenever possible.
G
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Stretch my old ring out.
I Am Kirk Johnson. "Anal Stretching, Wrenching & Expanding Specialist" http://www.imagefap.com/image.php?id 88478267
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