Why is the neutral isolated in a sub box.

"daestrom" wrote in message news:Koykb.33644$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.nyroc.rr.com...

No, the neutral MUST be bonded to the gounding electrode conductor. In a remote building such as the one you describe in 1), you treat grounding and neutral issues just like you would in a separately derived system.

What you are describing is a mutliple-fault condition. If this were to occur, you would indeed be in peril; the gradient from the g-rod to any point out further than several inches would be high enough to be a hazard. But then again your senario could just as likely (or unlikely) occur in a regular service and be just as dangerous. The only saving grace would be if you were lucky enough to have a nice copper water-service with a low impedance path out to a steel main with the utility grounded to it. I've seen dropped neutrals that were never even noticed because the water service was carrying the service imbalance (neutral) current. In one case (a bank), the only clue was copious green stains in the restroom sinks and toilets. All I had to do to prove it to the super (he didn't believe me) was place my clamp-on ammeter around the incoming water service. I've also seen a drop-neutral knock out a CATV distribution amplifier out at the street in an underground subdivision. The service imbalance current was going out on the 500Coax shield. While I'm in the story-telling mode, let me tell you how years ago, before I had my own business, four people - including my boss, electrical inspector, untility engineer and a journeyman - made mistakes that almost killed a cuctomer: The company I worked for had wired a residence that was built over a crawl space with a rat slab. The main panel, which also served as the service disconnect, was installed in a utilty closet located near the middle of the house. This was an underground 200-amp service with the meter socket mounted on an H-frame near the begining of a 100' driveway. The service entrance conduit was run along the rat-slab about 20' in the crawl and then up into the bottom of the panel in the closet above This conduit was really just a sleave because after the service entrance left the building it was direct-burial. This was unacceptable to both the AHJ and LILCO engineer because the conduit was run too far into the structure without an OCD protecting it (we have a 5' rule in our area; the code simply says the disconnect means must be as close as possible). Well the right way to have installed such a service would be to have installed a 200-amp combination meter-main out at the driveway and run four conductors into the house (L1, L2, N, ECG) or encase the conduit in the crawl with at least 2" of concrete. Now when this violation was picked up the whole house had be trimmed-out with all appliances installed. My old boss, the local inspector and the LILCO engineer decided the concrete approach was impractacle as well as adding a third conductor for the ECG (remember the service was direct burial outside of the foundation). Instead, they arrived at what they felt was a decent compromise - not a good word when dealing with the safety of electrical installations. It consisted of pulling out the meter socket and replacing it with a meter-main, leaving the 3-conducors as-is, driving a separate set of G-rods out at the meter location, and finally converting the panel from a main to a sub-panel by removing the main bonding jumper (a green screw that goes through the neutral bar and into the box frame) and, finally, separating the ECGs (branch circuit grounds) from the nuetrals. Sounds bad enough does it? It gets worse. Here's were the journeyman that performed the panel conversion came in: The house had a Jenn-Air electric indoor down-draft grill which was fed by a 6/2 SEU service cable. When he moved all the ECGs off the neutral bar and onto a newly-installed ground bar, he saw the bare stranded wire neutral of the 6/2 SEU and mistook it for an ECG. He diligently moved it to the now-floating ground bar! This why the NEC only permits the usage of service cable for appliances only when it originates from a "main" or service panel - not a sub-panel. The house passed inspection and no one living in it has any idea of the peril. One day I show up to work and was sent out to check two problems: the fan on the Jenn-Aire was not working and everytime someone steps out of the shower, they get belted. Funny thing though: they lived in that house for a month and never got belted getting out of that shower. How could that be? Simple. The problem never showed up until someone tried to turn on the Jenn-Aire fan, found it didn't work and walked away leaving the switch in the "on" position!

Never a bad idea!

Paul

Reply to
Nukie Poo
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---------- Average stroke is about 30-35KA, the probability of a of a stroke of 100KA is about 0.5%. Typically any lightning protection has a let through stroke current level of about 15KA (based on "strike distance " design techniques. However, putting this quibble of mine to the side it is true that it is to provide a current path. As to insulator breakdown, for the sort of insulation levels encountered anywhere near a garage, a typical rod will not be pareticularly effective at preventing this. It does, however, offer a better path to ground than anything else around.

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No problem with the ground return conductor. As for the few hundred ohm ground path- that is questionable - most of the ground path resistance is within a few meters of the ground electrode and the difference between 50 and 100 or 200 ft is not all that great. (many rural 6900KV lines were built without a ground conductor - being grounded by rods only at the transformers along the way. Voltage drops in the ground were small (and safe). I have also seen the results where the ground conductor was open. The resistance distribution that you quote for lightning is also true for DC or low frequency AC AC (with some variations in scale) as indicated by the work of such as Rudenberg and Dwight (about 75 years ago and still in use). A matter of current density as distance from the rod increases (somewhat analogous to the E field as one moves away from a point charge).

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Agreed

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--------- Thanks -This is the point that I knew and had forgotten about. .

-- Don Kelly snipped-for-privacy@peeshaw.ca remove the urine to answer

Reply to
Don Kelly

Well, sport, it WILL pull the 120 volts down to "local ground" and that's all you can ask for.

It would be the equivalent of setting up two separate grounding schemes more than 25' apart and connecting power company neutral to one system and power compary 120 volts to the other. You would draw about 10 amps (more or less) from the "circuit" but you shouldn't get zapped.

Of couse, things like metal fence wire and damp sections of the lawn can cause dangerous voltage gradients but within a shed there should not be a problem.

Reply to
John Gilmer

Why do you have to be so snide? Besides, you're wrong: Go take a ground rod, drive it into the earth; take an extension cord and cut off the female end; strip the black wire and connect it to the driven rod. Next, with the cord plugged into an non-GFI outlet, kneel down and take that arrogant mouth of yours and touch it to that rod - or better yet, sit on it. Then, tell us if the empirical results agree with your theory - in your next life, "sport".

Reply to
Nukie Poo

I would not even think of doing that (but you just did!)

You are just too stpuid to realize that what you fear in only running three wires to the shack happens quite often in real life when the power line to the house partly fails.

Reply to
John Gilmer

I never said I fear anything in running three wires to the "shack". You are confusing me with the original poster. I was simply describing various fault-scenarios and their possible consequences. And, BTW, I quite well know what happens in real life with electrical services - I've been in the electrical contracting business for over 25 years and hold a Master Electrician License (Suffolk County No. 4899-E). I also hold a electrical engineering degree. You, however, look like yet another engineer/armchair electrician with obviously not much hands-on experience in the field. Not to mention that you can't even properly follow a Usenet thread. Go swallow a watch battery and call me in the morning.

Reply to
Nukie Poo

I suggest you go count the wires coming to the "shack" your family sleeps in. I have never seen a home in the US wired with anything but 3 wire if it was

240/120 single phase.
Reply to
Gfretwell

So?

What's your point? This who discussion was based on "worse case" were a wire to open or become disconnected.

In the last few years, we have lost the neutral once and one of the two hots twice.

I simply described the "worse of the worse" case whereby the only wire coming in is the hot and that somehow it ended up being shorted to your "local ground."

Reply to
John Gilmer

Maybe someone should have fixed them all the first time.

Reply to
Gfretwell

Maybe the armchair electrician tried to fix it himself.

Reply to
Nukie Poo

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