Wierd household voltages...it's baaaack!

Jul 18, 2004 4 Replies

Hi all,



I recently had a post about strange household voltages ( approx. 75V between the neutral and ground) and got a few ideas on what it could be...I eventually thought I had solved it by swapping out all the outlets due to poor connections made up in the boxes, and because they all had been painted over several times. Well, the last time I left every thing seemed fine. Voltages were alright on each outlet. Now I come back and they are giving bad readings AGAIN!



I scratch my head for a second and think, "what could have changed since the last time I was here?" Ah ha - it was dark when I left last time, so I switch the light switch and voila', ckt checks good! All there is is a switch leg coming down to the switch from the fixture (which is fed hot and supplies the rest of the ckt). What in the world could cause my getting an approximate 75V reading on the neutral to gnd when it is off (or for that matter, what difference could it make when I turn it on that it corrects the problem)? I have tried to draw it out on paper, but nothing pops into mind as to what could be causing it. Any ideas?



Sincerely, (befuddled) Scott


Put a 60 watt bulb in parallel with the volt meter when you make the measurements, then report the results.

If I understand this, you read 75 volts n-g when the light switch is not conducting, and 0 v when it is.

best shot from afar - (unless you are near hi-power lines or a radio/cell/tv tower) 1) think ground (in fixture) to neutral as a current path rather than neutral to ground as the path 2) Also think all wires TO the hot side of the switch having 120 v before the switch is thrown, and all wires AFTER the lamp as sitting at neutral/ground when the switch (which connects the lamp to neutral) is thrown. Note that the wires/parts between the lamp and the switch neutral screw are the only ones that change potential when the switch is thrown

My guess is the problem is a pinched/damaged wire in/after the fixture (or less likely a corroded/contaminated switch), e.g., a wire after the lamp going to the switch has crushed insulation resting on the fixture/a wire. You're reading the voltage due to leakage thru the insulation -- and your reading is 75 volts rather than 120 volts because the meter itself is part of a high resistance circuit with the insulation/corrosion/contamination - (As a wild guess, I would suspect that you would get a reading closer to 120 volts if you used a higher impedance meter)

When the switch is on, the "good" path to neutral is made, the wires from the lamp to the switch neutral connector drop to neutral potential, and then the wires after the lamp no longer have the 120 volts from which you get your

75 volts reading -- the switch has connected them to neutral potential

I would look for a nicked, cracked, or pinched wire in the fixture/box that is touching the fixture itself - a wire or part between the lamp and the switch

- and just because, I would change the switch - often times, just moving the wires off the fixture removes the voltage.

And also check the fixture ground connection physically with the breaker off

--- there are other tricks for other conditions if this does not work - so keep us posted

There are people in the world that wire the fixture hot and switch the neutral. Some times called a California 3 way. at least it is around here. Start a mapping project and I am sure once you get beyond the frustrating part you will find some silly mistake in the wiring or something loose.

Best of luck, been there

Thanks for all the input...I won't be able to check it out until we get back from the beach at the end of the month. But I'll definitely try the suggestions posted. BTW...the guy who lived there used $30K to remodel this house...I think he could have used a chimp (no offense to you chimps) and done it for $3K judging by the way this place had been done! :>) I'll let you know what I find...

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